BOTTLE OF THE WEEK

Because it's distinctly Spanish, because it's made by the admirable Miguel Torres, because the price needn't cause convulsions and, oh, yes, because it tastes so good, it has to be the Gran Sangre de Toro Reserva 1991 (widely available, £7.99-8.50). It's deep in colour, deep in flavour and develops beautifully as you sip it, opening out from damson and blackberry tastes to a sort of fig and coffee richness. One wine merchant calls this his "desert island wine" - an essential to instant cheer, even in trying circumstances. Chilly, early March comes under that heading in my book. Remember it needs meat, though, to match its own meatiness. If not roast beef, maybe a few slices of spicy chorizo.