Was Pinotage at an everyday kind of price ever this good before? Or has the Cape sun turned me soft?
Clos Malverne Pinotage Reserve 1998 (Dunnes Stores, £7.99) is a fabulous, modern version of South Africa's most traditional red wine.
Pinotage fanatic Seymour Pritchard uses a mix of old and new techniques (open fermenters, basket presses, but much riper grapes than before) to achieve a luxuriously textured, vigorously flavoured, complex blockbuster. Memorable - even without ostrich steaks.