"I love the wines of the Languedoc," Jancis Robinson says, "because they have real character and ripeness without too much alcohol". To see what she means, treat yourself to a bottle of Chateau Pech-Redon Cuvee Reservee, Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape, 1998 (Tesco, £6.99). The flavours of ripe, dark fruits and chocolate, the faint aromas of tar or molten rubber that will make you think of southern French roads in the baking sun . . . and, at 12 per cent alcohol by volume, it won't flatten you. All too drinkable already, it should taste even better in six months.