Bottle Of The Week

`How long does it last? Ten years absolutely no problem, and 20-30 in great vintages," says Alister Purbrick of his remarkable…

`How long does it last? Ten years absolutely no problem, and 20-30 in great vintages," says Alister Purbrick of his remarkable Chateau Tahbilk Shiraz, Victoria, 1994 (outlets above, usually £9.99). I believe him, having recently tasted the incredibly suave 1985. How many other red wines can you think of, at under a tenner, with such a life expectancy? Feral on the nose, spicy and vigorous on the palate, this 1994 is still very sprightly. Tahbilk Cabernet, made in the same traditional way with maturation in old oak, is also perfect for long cellaring. The 1992 should peak around 2015; the 1994 is a toddler.