Bottle Of The Week

I'd hate to think of Champagne Bernard Depoivre Cuvee Prestige NV (£25) being splashed around mindlessly at midnight on the M-night. But as part of a grand dinner, or a special brunch the next day, it would be fan-bubble-tastic, because this is an assertive, fullbodied champagne that needs food. About 80 per cent Chardonnay, 20 per cent Pinots Noir and Meunier, it's smooth and rich with an almost salty finish. Order in the foie gras or caviar, pour and purr.