Bottle Of The Week

If you're tired of wines that taste fine at the first sip but bore you in no time with brash, unsubtle flavours, it's time to try Guelbenzu Tinto 1996 (outlets above, usually about £7.95). Mainly Tempranillo, it has plenty of character - lovely plummy fruit in a mantle of spice - but what I love about this well-bred wine is the way it reveals itself gradually, opening up in the glass and drawing you in. Each mouthful seems to taste better . . . And before you know it, the whole bottle's gone.