Bottle Of The Week

Clever winemaking to the rescue. A central Italian varietal, churned out in quantity by clumsy co-ops, is saved from its lacklustre image by the new Bolla Sangiovese di Romagna 1995 (outlets above, £6.99-£7.49). This light, tangy red - attractively fruity but savoury at the same time - will happily play almost any supporting role you allocate it, enhancing grilled chicken, vegetables, salami, cheese, pasta, pork or even steak and salad. Watch it spread across the country.