Crowded crossroads waiting for renewal

IN . . . PHIBSBOROUGH There's a warm village vibe about Phibsborough says Paul O'Doherty, even though it's loud, busy, crowded and traffic-crazy

TO MOST people in Dublin, Phibsborough or Phibsboro (as some spell it), with a population of 15,000 people, is a gateway or crossroads at Doyle's corner to somewhere else in the city. On a hill up from the Royal Canal on one side and Grangegorman on the other, it's as close as you'll get to Mountjoy (employing approximately 530 people) or the Mater Hospital (employing approximately 3,000) without being chained or suffering from a cough.

If you know your Joyce, you'll know that Paddy Dignam's funeral procession in Ulysses leaves Sandymount for Prospect Cemetery in Glasnevin. The hearse makes its way up Blessington Street, around Berkeley Street and "in silence they drove along Phibsbourough Road" via the North Circular to the Royal Canal.

Today, it's much more loud, busy, crowded and traffic-crazy. At its centre, however, it still maintains a warm village vibe despite being overshadowed by its Stalinist-style bleak Phibsboro shopping centre with on top, its towering six-storey office-block finger to the world and architecture in general.

Across the street, a cornucopia of sympathetic catastrophes line up like embittered soldiers on parade, some with their shutters permanently in surrender in between the charity shops, convenience stores, pubs and cafés. Behind the shopping centre, Dalymount Park - once upon a time better known as the Pisser Dignams's field - counts the days to retirement, its roar now only a squeak, with Bohemians's €65 million property-induced sale and move to Harristown already secured. Away from the hub, the redbrick streets retain prestige, and Asian, Polish and Slovakian shops are thriving, introducing commercial opportunities while the bigger developers hear soundings or prevaricate.

Such soundings centre around the Phibsborough/Mountjoy draft local regeneration plan which suggests introducing a rail-link at Cross Guns Bridge, traffic calming, redevelopment of Mountjoy and Dalymount to include residential, retail and educational opportunities, a new library, crèche facilities, plazas, and redevelopment of the main shopping centre, where Tesco is the anchor tenant.

Surprisingly, the plan envisages retaining and redeveloping the existing shopping centre tower - the monstrosity mentioned above, and home to Garda organisations such as the GRA and ADGI - and by shadowing it with a higher "landmark building beside it". Another major development in the area is the proposal for 148 residential units, among other suggestions, at Cross Guns Bridge where planning permission has been refused in the past.

How's the Market?

Local agents offer mixed views from "vibrant" to "disastrous". With a range of properties from traditional two-bed artisan cottages to new apartments and duplexes, this is a good area for starter homes and investors. Typically, a two-bedroom apartment is €395,000 (Shandon Mill), a three-bedroom duplex is €450,000 (George's Wharf), and a redbrick three-bedroom terrace is €650,000 (Shandon Park). For investors, a pair of two-storey houses with seven units is available at €1.6 million (on the New Cabra Road). While not exempt from the PR (property recession) crisis, redbrick period is still very fashionable with anywhere from Shandon Park/Road and Phibsborough Road to the roads celebrating the four provinces still in demand.

And to rent?

"Must-pay-the-mortgage" investor-bullets hitting landlords where once there were decent returns. Prices down to €1,100 for scarce one-bed apartments with two-bed options down to €1,300.

Going Out?

Phibsborough is two miles and a 30-minute walk from the city centre, serviced by a multitude of busses, so best to move on through like everybody else for the brighter lights close by - unless you're interested in the odd session, fast food (the Woodstock Café, in particular, is very popular) or follow Bohemians.

Price of a pint?

In John Doyle's, €3.30 in the bar and €4 in the lounge.

Good for families?

Renovation work on St Peter's national school, the only one in the area, will finish in the next five weeks. It has 400 pupils and there are plans to extend into the Dalymount site where a second primary school is planned. However, St Peter's principal, Joan Quinn, acknowledges the priority isn't a second primary school but the area's first secondary. Crèche places are available at NCR Childcare at €165 per week and the Dublin Institute of Technology will soon move to its Grangegorman campus.

What to do?

Royal Canal walks, pub quizzes and sessions, Premier League football and singing and ballet every Saturday morning for age three and upwards with Miss Eileene (sic) at Phibsboro Gym.

Locals Say

"We're only going to miss Dalyer when it's gone" (Jack Byrne).

"I've been living here all my life. It's a fantastic place to live and everything is on your doorstep and it's close to town (Elizabeth Morrissey).

"Traffic is terrible" (Genevieve McGuirk).