Sweet and nutty: Scallops with brown butter and hazelnuts

Each year around this time, I write in this column about the plight of the Irish scallop industry; about how we don't really care about it. All over Europe you can hand-dive for scallops and sell them in the shell, shuck them at home and enjoy the experience of this amazing shellfish.

While I have learned that to sell them in the shell they must be tested in the shell (we just don't bother to do it as it adds an extra layer of bureaucracy), the reason for outlawing the hand-diving for scallops here has something to do with Charlie Haughey and his government of the 1980s. That was 30-odd years ago. Surely by now we should have realised that hand-diving is more sustainable than dredging. Maybe in the advent of Cop26, we may return to hand-diving as a better option.

How to cook scallops with brown butter and hazelnuts

Autumn is a time for shellfish and nuts, and I love to combine the sweetness of the scallop meat with the rich nutty flavour of a roasted hazelnut. I always remove the roe from my scallop before frying. This is a personal choice, and a lot of people love the roe, but I prefer to smoke it and blend it into mayonnaise.

I also choose to fry my scallops on one side only. Other chefs will disagree with me on this technique. I just find that you get a better combination of the sweet caramelised flavour that a scallop has to offer when you only pan fry one side until it’s beautifully brown and crusty.

Set a pan on the hob and remove the scallops from the fridge. Make sure they are immaculately dry and then season them with a little salt. Add oil to the hot pan and wait a moment before adding the scallops. Cook until brown and then add a knob of butter and thyme. Baste the scallop for another 30 seconds and then add a splash of lemon juice. Remove from the heat. Finish by grating some hazelnuts over the scallops.