Sauvignon, if you must

The Marlborough varieties dominate the market, but thankfully they aren’t the only Sauvignons

AROUND THIS TIME last year I launched my SUS (Save us from Sauvignon) campaign, a personal crusade to save the nation from yet more Marlborough Sauvignon. As far as I can see, it has had absolutely no effect whatsoever; you continue to slurp case-loads of the stuff with gay abandon. My real aim was not to demonise Sauvignon, although I have reached the stage where I find it difficult to get excited when a glass is put in front of me, but to point out that there were plenty of other, more exciting alternatives. Having failed so miserably, I thought I would rein in my ambitions, and this time offer some alternative versions of Sauvignon.

How Sauvignon tastes depends on where it is grown, how early the grapes are picked, and the strain of yeast used in fermentation. Grown in a cool climate, and this is where it performs best, it produces fresh, palate-tingling wines, with sharp-focused green fruits, and plenty of refreshing acidity. It is instantly recognisable by its lifted aromas of (depending on who you talk to) gooseberry, asparagus, cut grass, fresh peas, and even cats’ pee – don’t laugh, all the above share certain aromatic compounds. In warmer regions Sauvignon becomes progressively richer and rounder with flavours of peach, passion fruit and other tropical fruits.

If longevity is an essential component for greatness, Sauvignon does not really make the grade. There are some interesting mature examples, but for the most part, it is a wine to drink in its youth. The classic Marlborough style is highly aromatic, filled with gooseberry fruit. In recent years, a group of quality-orientated producers both in Marlborough and elsewhere in New Zealand has tried to tone down on the gooseberries, and add more complexity through blending with Semillon or ageing in new oak.

Home territory for Sauvignon is the eastern Loire Valley. In Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, the best chalky vineyards give an extra dimension, certainly mineral, often described as gunflint or flinty. The nearby towns of Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon used to offer value; nowadays the best are not that much cheaper than Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, but are certainly worth the price. There has been a huge expansion of Sauvignon vineyards in Touraine. A variety of styles is available; the best avoid the traditional, distinctly austere, stony character.

In Bordeaux, Sauvignon is blended with Semillon and aged in oak for the top wines. The less expensive versions are often delicious and offer great value. Chile is now a major competitor, having developed a style that is a little richer and rounder than Marlborough. The most exciting areas are Casablanca, and most recently Leyda valley. South Africa is something of a halfway house between the fruit-filled New Zealand wines and the more austere Loire versions. Some are excellent.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Reuilly, Domaine Denis Jamain 2007, Loire Valley, 12.5%, €15Jamain is one of the top producers in Reuilly, to the west of Sancerre. The high chalk content of the soil leads to some austere wines, the best of which I enjoy greatly. This wine is beginning to show a pleasing maturity, with some rounded green fruits on the centre-palate and plenty of crisp acidity. Enjoy with a bowl of mussels or some oysters. Stockist:Superquinn.

L'Abeille de Fieuzal 2007, Pessac- Léognan, 13%, €32Now under Irish ownership, Château de Fieuzal produces some very fine wines, both red and white. The white can age spectacularly well. This is the second wine, made from a blend of 70 per cent Sauvignon and 30 per cent Semillon. It is drinking beautifully now, with very stylish fresh peach fruits given real substance and depth by the Semillon and subtle oak flavours. A delicious wine with or without food. Stockists:Mitchell Son, IFSC; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Donnybrook Fair (all Dublin); the Winestore, Limerick.

Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Elgin, South Africa, 13.5%This is the sort of wine that gives Marlborough producers nightmares: it has a restrained, leafy nose, measured, refreshing, lithe green fruits, and a long, crisp, dry finish. A very classy, balanced wine with real finesse. Stockists:Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; The Wineshop.ie, Keypoint Business park; Red Island, Skerries; Drink Store, Manor Street; Redmond's, Ranelagh (all Dublin); Claudio's, Newtownmountkennedy; Next Door, Raheen, Limerick; Next Door, Ennis; Next Door, Enniscorthy; Harvest, Galway; Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Ardkeen Stores, Waterford.

Cartagena Sauvignon Blanc Tres Vinedos 2009, San Antonio Valley, 14%, €15.49From some of the coolest vineyards of Chile, just a few kilometres from the Pacific, a very unusual wine that boasts rich, textured peach fruits and no shortage of power, alongside a mineral note. It calls out for an equally assertive dish; it would go nicely with lightly spicy Asian prawn or chicken dishes. Stockists:Marks Spencer

TWO UNDER €12

Secano Estate Sauvignon Gris, Leyda Valley, Chile, 14%, €11.29A clonal mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, but you would certainly be forgiven for mistaking it for the real thing, with its zesty nose and very lively palate of grapefruit pith and green fruits. Better drunk with food. Stockist:Marks Spencer

Sauvignon Blanc Les Caves du Haut Poitou 2009, Loire Valley, 12.5%, €10This is classic Loire Sauvignon, fresh, crisp and dry, lightly aromatic with cool green fruits. Great as an aperitif or with seafood. Stockists:64wine, Glasthule; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Corkscrew, Chatham Street; Higgins's, Clonskeagh; Bibi's, 14b Emorville Avemue (all Dublin); Knight's, Shannon; Hargadon's, Sligo.

jwilson@irishtimes.com