Game on Gamay

Don’t overlook Gamay. Here is a selection of easy drinking wines made with this grape variety, none costing more than €15

GAMAY ISN’T VERY glamorous. When New World winemakers nicked all the best French (and more recently Spanish and Italian) grape varieties to plant back home, they studiously avoided the Beaujolais region and its sole grape, the Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc. Even in neighbouring Burgundy, it doesn’t have a very happy history. Attempts to introduce it in the late 14th-century caused uproar.

At first glance, this all seems very surprising. Gamay is an early-ripening variety that can offer prolific yields. The wines are fruit-filled and supple, ready to drink almost as soon as they are bottled. They aren’t too high in alcohol, and have light tannins so you get great all-purpose wines that can be drunk on their own, but also go remarkably well with a wide variety of foods.

The image problem seems to stem from a lack of seriousness. Gamay doesn’t have a reputation for ageing well, although the best wines of Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon (both 100 per cent Gamay), two of the top crus of Beaujolais, can actually mature beautifully, often tasting uncannily like a Pinot Noir at 10 years old. But more likely, Gamay does not conform to our idea of red wine being big, powerful and tannic. It also appears to be very fussy about where you plant it. Away from the rolling granite hills of Beaujolais, the wines can lack that all-important, vibrant, sweet-sour fruit.

One area where it really doesn't seem to work well is in neighbouring Mâcon, where the wines too often are muddy and completely lacking in the purity that is the essence of great Gamay. Actually, I'm not sure great is the right word to use here. Andrew Jefford in his book The New Franceargues that Gamay "is the proof that happiness can sometimes be uncomplicated. It has a huge capacity for goodness, and almost none for greatness". Faint praise perhaps, but then how many truly great wines does the world produce, and how often can we afford to drink them?

I will tackle the best wines of Beaujolais next week. But there are few other parts of France that can produce some very decent Gamay. As mentioned above, it is grown in the Mâconnais, as well as the Ardèche, and the Loire Valley. It is rarely seen outside of France, with the exception of minor plantings in California, and Switzerland where it is often blended with Pinot Noir to make Dôle, their version of the Burgundy speciality Passetoutgrains.

In the Loire Valley, and most notably Anjou and Touraine, there are some wonderful fresh exuberant fruit-filled wines that are perfect for casual dinners. This week six wines, all under €15, and all bar one made from 100 per cent Gamay.

Rouge Gamay 2009, Vin Mousseux Aromatique de Qualité Doux, 7.5%, €14.99 (€10 on promotion)Sparkling red wine is something of an acquired taste. Australia makes sparkling Shiraz, a wine that divides opinion. But, arguably, Gamay is better suited to sparkling wine, and this is an attractive, light, off-dry wine with fresh raspberry and blackcurrant fruits – think of fizzy Ribena. To be cracked open at the first sign of summer. Stockist: Superquinn

Gamay 2010, Vin de pays de l'Ardèche, 12%, €5.99This is not the biggest wine, but it does offer some true Gamay style at a very affordable price. Lifted strawberry aromas, light – very light – easy strawberry fruits and not a tannin in sight. This would make a great party wine, or to glug with appetisers and salads. Serve lightly chilled. Stockist: Marks Spencer

Lombeline 2009, Vin de pays du Val de Loire, 12%, €9.90A lifted nose of strawberries and fruit lollipops; this is another easy quaffer with very attractive summer fruits, and surprisingly good length for a wine of this style. A true vin de soif. Stockists: Vanilla Grape, Kenmare; The Wine Store, thewinestore.ie

Le Bois Jacon 2009, Jean-François Mérieau, Touraine Gamay, 12%, €11.95I have written about the Mérieau wines before, including a very good sparkling wine and a Sauvignon. This is a real star with lovely warm, ripe, strawberry and sweet blackcurrant fruits, richly concentrated with real style and excellent length. Brilliant value for money. I took this on to a casual dinner the evening I tasted it, where it was a star attraction. Stockists: Terroirs, Donnybrook, Dublin 4 (terroirs.ie)

Domaine de la Charmoise 2009 Henry Marionnet, Touraine Gamay, 12.5%, €13.20Another of the star winemakers of the Loire Valley, Marrionnet turns out a string of delicious white and red wines, including some very serious Gamay. This has lovely fragrant strawberry aromas, and supple, light, juicy summer fruits. Brilliant bistro wine or to drink over lunch. Stockists: Le Caveau, Kilkenny (lecaveau.ie); Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.

Lombeline Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2009, 12.5%, €13.80Rarely seen, Passetoutgrain is a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay from Burgundy. This has a warm, lifted nose of strawberries and Pinot Noir; slightly pippy, cool but ripe, and very concentrated. Richer than the other wines featured, this would go nicely with pork or charcuterie. Stockists: Bin 9, Goatstown; Vanilla Grape, Kenmare and Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4.

* jwilson@irishtimes.com

Burgundy 2009 offers

The price of fine Bordeaux continues to rocket, thanks to interest from China and other countries. Burgundy seems set to follow, but in the meantime, there is an opportunity to buy the 2009 vintage. All reports suggest that this will go down as one of the truly great vintages. Conor Richardson of Burgundy Direct says: “The reds are seductive, satiny and beautifully balanced. You couldn’t but be impressed and they will continue to impress for many years to come.”

Liam Cabot was equally effusive: “The best reds have real elegance in their wonderful, vibrant fruits and will be appealing at an early age, whilst having the concentration and balance to mature effortlessly.”

Both Cabot Co and On the Grapevine have visited Burgundy and have written comprehensive tasting notes of the wines and vintage in barrel. They have a tantalising joint offer, including Méo-Camuzet, Mugneret-Gibourg and Domaine Louis Jadot, with comprehensive tasting notes. The offer closes March 31st. Telephone 098-37000 or 01-2353054 for details. Burgundy Direct has some of the very best too, including Anne Gros, de Vogué, Robert Chevillon, Vincent Dancer and many other gems.

Tel: 01-2896615.