Crack open a cracking Crianza

Rioja is a lovely place to visit, with interesting bodegas, some of Spain's best vegetables, and the wine's not bad either, writes JOHN WILSON

RIOJA COMES IN many guises, from the sublime to the barely drinkable. I have written before about the Jovenes, young fruit-filled wines that usually sell for around €10-€12 a bottle. Theoretically the next steps up in price and quality are Crianza and Reserva, followed by Gran Reserva. But these refer to the length of time the wine has spent in oak barrels, and poor wines aged in oak will only be made worse by this treatment. I would suggest avoiding very cheap Reservas and Gran Reservas, and go instead for a Crianza, which can offer great value. A Crianza must be aged for two years before release, including a minimum of one year in oak barrels. A Reserva has been matured for at least three years, including 12 months in oak.

I spent a few days last year at the Grandes de Rioja, a biannual fair that offers a great opportunity to visit wineries as well as taste a huge range of wines. There is plenty of evidence that the recession has lead to a welcome price stabilisation. The quality of winemaking has probably never been so high, with a huge number of new wineries vying to compete with the traditional stars of the region.

Highlights of my visit included a trip to López de Heredia, an old-style producer where time has stood still, and a tasting of 13 vintages of Roda 1, one of the best modern wineries in the region. Roda is available from James Nicholson (jnwines.com), but sadly I don’t think López de Heredia is currently available in Ireland.

The region is justifiably famous for its food, with lamb often playing a central role. It goes perfectly with the wine. But in Spain it is best-known for its excellent vegetables, and patatas a la riojana, a marvellous potato stew. Rioja has now become much more open to tourists, with many wineries offering tours and tastings. Some have very good restaurants as well. There is now a small train, El Tren del Vino, running from Logroño station, the capital of La Rioja, to either Haro or Briones, where you can visit various wineries. The train costs €12, including three visits.

Baigorri Rioja Crianza 2006, 14%, €18Driving along the road above Bodegas Baigorri, all you can see is a small glass box. Built into the mountainside below is a state-of-the-art winery designed by architect Iñaki Aspaziu, with amazing views out into the valley below. The wines are very modern too, but in the best possible sense. I have written about the Maceration Carbonica before, a delicious rounded fruity wine, and great value at €13. The Crianza is a big step up in quality, a hedonistic delight at a very reasonable price. Smooth, voluptuous, dark fruits overlaid with subtle spicy oak, and a great finish. Stockists: La Touche, Greystones; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Enowines, Monkstown and IFSC; 64wine, Glasthule; The Cheese Pantry, Drumcondra; Liston's, Camden Street; Bin No9, Goatstown: Power Smullen, Lucan; Dunnes Butchers, Donnybrook; Lilliput, Stoneybatter; Ennis's, South Circular Road

Palicios Remondo La Montesa 2006 Rioja Crianza, 14%, €18.99"The biggest challenge in Rioja is to make good, even great Crianza. It is relatively easy to make the top expensive wines, but I want to be known for my Crianza," says Alvaro Palacios. At his new winery and visitor centre, built close to to the family hotel in Faro, Palacios fashions some great modern Rioja. He is a great believer in Garnacha, which on the cooler slopes above the village produces wines with greater elegance and minerality than elsewhere. The La Montesa made from 60 per cent Garnacha is glossy and sleek with layers of sweet ripe fruit, dark chocolate and smoky oak. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Ardkeeen Superstores, Waterford; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Sweeney's, Dublin 11; O'Driscolls, Cork

Finca Emperatriz Rioja Crianza 2006, €15.50A highly promising recent development, based on one large single vineyard. The 100-hectare site, which once belonged to Napoleon's wife, has stony alluvial soils, completely different to other parts of Rioja Alta. It is also one of the highest vineyards in the region. The vines are 60-65 years old. Emperatriz produce a few special releases, but I preferred the less expensive Crianza and Reserva, both of which have a lovely balance of minerality and fruit. Atypical for the region, but very good wines. The Crianza has lovely clean cherry and blackcurrant fruits, with a core of fine tannins and excellent dry length. Stockists: Jus de Vine; The Drinks Store, Manor Street; Donnybrook Fair; thewinestore.ie

Coto de Imaz Rioja Reserva, El Coto de Rioja 2004, 13.5%, €16.99A more traditional style of Rioja, made from 100 per cent Tempranillo sourced in La Rioja Alta. Classic, well-priced Rioja with light but nicely concentrated cherry fruits and light vanilla. It would be best served with food, including lighter red meats, game, and the local speciality, lamb. Stockists: Karwig Wines, Cork; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Gibney's, Malahide; Cellars, Naas road; McHugh's, Kilbarrack and Artane; Bin No 9, Goatstown; The Vineyard, Galway; Kelly's, Clontarf; Molloy's Liquor Stores, Dublin

Viña Ardanza Rioja Reserva Especial 2000, 13.5%, €27.50Bodegas La Rioja Alta is one of the great houses of Rioja, with an illustrious history dating back to 1890. The original bodega is located in Haro, close to several other producers. There is an impressive shop and visitor centre. The top wine here is the iconic 904 Gran Reserva. I tasted the 1964 (one of the great vintages in Rioja); it was exquisite. The current 1997 vintage sells for €45. The Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial 2000, although expensive, really impressed too. Subtle, elegant, red fruits with a lovely freshness, and a smooth dry finish. The 2001 of the same wine was even better. Stockists: Redmond's, Ranelagh; Just de Vine; Holland's, Bray; Thomas Woodberry, Galway; Daly's, Boyle; Bradley's, Cork.

TWO UNDER €12

Badajo, Rueda, Bodegas Golica 2009, 12.5%, €10.95

Plump fresh pear and grapefruits, with plenty of lively acidity to wash it down. Great everyday white to drink solo or with fish. Stockists: La Touche; Sweeney’s; Lilac Wines; Enowines; 64wine, Glasthule; The Cheese Pantry; Liston’s; Bin No9; Power Smullen; Dunnes; Lilliput; Ennis’s

Sá do Baixo, Douro, Portugal 2008, 13%, €10.95

I have featured this wine in the past, but the current vintage may be the best yet. Lovely rounded pure dark fruits with a light sprinkling of spice. More of everything than you would expect at this price, and one of the best-value red wines in the country at present.Stockists: McHugh’s Kilbarrack and Malahide Road; Redmond’s; Red Island, Skerries; Liston’s; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Bin No9; Probus Wines, Fenian Street; Power Smullen; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Morton’s, Ranelagh and Hatch Street; 64Wine, Glasthule; Gibney’s, Malahide; Sweeney’s, Glasnevin; Martin’s, Fairview.

Beers of the world

Dicey Reilly's Bar and Off-Licence in Ballyshannon, Co Donegal is holding a world beer tasting on February 25th, with Dean McGuinness of the Sean Moncrieff show on Newstalk radio. There will be tastings of distinctive beers from all four corners of the world. This is a fundraiser for the Aodh Ruadh Club. Tickets (€15), are available from Dicey Reilly's 071-9851371.