A fine time was had by all at a recent tasting for readers that was steeped in Burgundies
We expected it would be a good night, but that good? The first Irish TimesWine Dinner, staged in association with top-notch Burgundy house, Antonin Rodet, its Irish distributors, Febvre & Co, and Dublin restaurant Frank's, was a resounding success.But don't take my word for it. One of the 40 guests who had been randomly selected from the hundreds of applications sent this note of appreciation: "A big thanks to you and your team for a fabulous evening last night in Frank's restaurant. We had a marvellous time - the wine, food and company were all great. The atmosphere was wonderful - we were looked after very well and made to feel very special."
It was a celebration of fine food and wine. Nadine Gublin, chief winemaker with Antonin Rodet and a former French winemaker of the year, liaised with Elizabeth Mee, owner of Frank's restaurant, to ensure that the menu would suit the wines and vice versa.
All five wines served at dinner were impressive, although everyone had their favourites. Some people believed the Puligny Montrachet 2003 alone was worth the journey, while others swooned over the Clos Vougeot 2002. The matching of this award-winning grand cru with a range of specially imported Burgundy cheeses was simply inspired and was, for many, the high point of the evening. The Rully served with organic smoked salmon was also a match to savour.
The night began with a Champagne - Deutz Blanc de Blancs 1998 - a rich, seductive and brilliantly dry sparkler. Then before each course Nadine Gublin explained the key characteristics of the chosen wine and what pleasures and pains each harvest had delivered. Since Antonin Rodet took over the then underperforming Domaine Jacques Prieur in 1988, Gublin and her team have worked hard to regain the respect these leading properties deserve.
Her philosophy is very simple: take care of the terroir and reduce yields. "My job is easy, because the most important thing we have to do is to pick clean, healthy, ripe grapes." To that end, Gublin began to fade out the use of all chemicals and fertilisers in 1997. She hopes to make all Domaine Jacques Prieur vineyards fully organic in three years. A native Burgundian, she is immensely passionate about wine, not least her own, but she has a very grounded approach to it. She is also open minded about Pinot Noir from New Zealand and the US.
It was a night of laughter, conversation, great food and memorable wines; and a wonderful start to what promises to be an interesting series of wine dinners. Our thanks to our partners on the night, Febvre & Co and its marketing manager Kerri Judge, Elizabeth Mee and the staff in Frank's and, of course, Nadine Gublin. And special thanks to our readers, who entered into the spirit of the occasion with gusto. The nominal charge of €50 each has been donated in full to the Hospice Foundation. We hope to commence the next tasting soon.
Frank's Restaurant, The Malting Tower, Grand Canal Quay, Dublin 2, 01-6625870
IRISH TIMES WINE DINNER
FRANK'S RESTAURANT
APERITIF
Champagne Deutz Blanc de Blancs 1998 (€72, recommended retail price)
APPETISER
Smoked organic Irish salmon with lemon creme fraiche and Avruga caviar. Wine: Château de Rully Blanc 2003 (€25)
FISH COURSE
Queen scallops with chive beurre blanc. Wine: Domaine Jacques Prieur Puligny Montrachet 1er cru Les Combettes 2003 (€89)
MAIN
Grilled fillet steak with wild mushrooms, shallot, garlic and parsley, served with green salad and frites. Wine: Domaine Jacques Prieur Beaune 1er cru Clos de la Féguine 1999 (€53)
CHEESE
A selection from Burgundy including Epoisses AOC. Wine: Domaine Jacques Prieur Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2002 (sold out, but the 2001 is €106)
DESSERT
Dark chocolate tart with berries and mocha mascarpone.
Wine:Antonin Rodet Pommard 1er cru Les Bertins 2003 (€46)
Stockists include: Redmonds, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Thomas's, Foxrock, Co Dublin; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; Sweeney's, Glasnevin, Dublin 9; McHugh's, Kilbarrack, Dublin 5 and Malahide, Co Dublin; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin