On my very first wine trip, I found myself alone on a balmy summer evening in the city of Mâcon in France. Strolling along the riverside, I came to a large open barn that was serving a no-choice menu of goat’s cheese and salad, sausage with steamed potatoes and a fruit tart. The restaurant was run by the wives of the local Beaujolais producers.
The seating comprised long wooden benches. I fell into conversation with my neighbours; as usual, my French improved after a glass or two. Wine never tasted so good. I have had a love affair with Beaujolais ever since.
The French like to stratify their wines. Beaujolais is the lowest category, followed by Beaujolais-Villages, which is made from superior vineyards and grapes, usually in the northern part of the appellation. At the top of the pyramid are the 11 crus. These are villages that have the best terroirs, with soils usually based on some form of granite. These communes just use their name, such as Fleurie, Brouilly or Morgon. All of the wines have been underpriced until recently. Over the past few years, I have watched with dismay as prices for the crus have increased to €50 and even €75 a bottle.
Beaujolais-Villages remains reasonably priced so far. It is a joyous drink – fresh and fruity and fun, a wine the French would call “gouleyant”, I think. It is not a wine to analyse too much but one to quaff and enjoy. Beaujolais of all kinds is one of the great food wines, perfect with everything from cold meats and firm cheeses to salmon, chicken, pork and quiches. All of the wines below would fit into this category. Serve cool.
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Beaujolais-Villages 2025, Perle de Granit Domaine de Colonat
13%, €15.99
Ripe and fleshy with plenty of smooth dark cherry fruits and some light tannins on the finish.
From O’Briens
Beaujolais-Villages 2024 Domaine de La Madone
13%, €17.95
A delicious, light, free-flowing wine with crunchy fresh red cherries and a tannin-free finish.
From Mitchell & Son, The Vaults, Dublin 2 and Glasthule, Co Dublin; Avoca Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow and Dunboyne, Co Meath; Wilde & Green, Dublin 14; 1601 Off Licence Kinsale, Co Cork
Domaine du Vieux Bourg Beaujolais-Villages 2025
13.5%, €22
A delightful summery wine with crunchy fresh red cherries and raspberries. Light, but it works very well.
From Whelehans, Loughlinstown, Co Dublin and Whelehans.ie
Beaujolais-Villages Poursuite Domaine Antoine Sunier 2023
13%, €26-28.50
A beautifully crafted wine with dangerously seductive pure dark cherry fruits. Well worth the money.
From Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4 and Stillorgan, Co Dublin; J Caxard, Camolin, Co Wexford; Nolan’s Butchers, Kildare; Swans on the Green, Naas, Co Kildare; The Wine Pair, Dublin 8
