For years sherry struggled with an image problem. Seen as a sweet wine sipped from a tiny glass, it was deeply unfashionable. There has always been another side to sherry, the glorious crisp finos and manzanillas, so good with tapas, and rich nutty dry amontillados and olorosos too. But these only appealed to a minority of wine drinkers and consumption of sherry has been falling steadily for decades now.
However, in recent years, a small but growing group of producers have started to produce something completely different; unfortified wines made using the same palomino fino grape variety. Some are aged in old sherry casks and have a delicious whiff of fino sherry without the alcohol, others are unoaked with delightful fresh fruits. Many are single vineyard wines as producers try to make wines that reflect the varying soils of the region.
These are all thrilling, exciting wines that are well worth seeking out. In addition to the wines below, I have featured the Cota 45 UBE Miraflores (€26-€29 independents) before; it is one of my favourite white wines.
If you think these wines are of minority interest, it is worth remembering that the Barbadillo Blanco, one of the bestselling white wines in Spain, is a palomino from Jerez. Sadly, it is not available in Ireland but worth trying if you holiday in Spain.
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Torres Viña Sol 2022, Catalunya
12%, €10-13
Not from Jerez but this light fresh and fruity wine is the perfect al fresco summer white with or without food. Widely available including SuperValu, Dunnes Stores, Tesco and other retailers.
Barbadillo Sábalo 2021, Vino de la Tierra de Cadiz, Organic
13.5%, €22-23
Floral and full of fruit with textured stone fruits and a saline dry finish. Delicious wine. Serve with summer salads or mixed seafood. From Pinto Wines, D9; Gibney’s, Malahide Drinkstore, D7; Parcel Concierge Dunshauglin; Worldwide Wines, Waterford; WineOnline.ie
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Valdespino Viña Macharnuda Alto 2022 Barrel Fermented Palomino
11%, €27.95
Light yet concentrated with creamy toasted almonds, lime zest, green fruits and notes of sherry. Try it with sautéed salmon or squid. From Neighbourhood Wines; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Mitchell & Son, Sandycove, IFSC, Redmonds, D6.
Oyo y Coillo Riofrío Alto 2022, Bodegas Miguel Castro Maíllo
13.5%, €32
From Montilla-Moriles, an intriguing delightful, elegant wine with subtle apple and pear fruits, green olives, grilled almonds and bready notes. It has a refreshing acidity and a long bone-dry finish. A delicious not-sherry! Enjoy with tapas or fried fish. From Blackrock Cellar; Morton’s of Galway; McCurtain, Cork; Green Man Wines, D6.
