In the Whitethorn, John McDonnell's favourite new white wine for summer 2000 is Lugana San Benedetto, Zenato, 1999 (outlets above, retail price about £7.95). Since Pascal Playon also mentions a Lugana as one of his best additions to Dromoland's list, maybe it's time we all gave this tiny, northern-Italian zone a try? The new vintage of the Zenato combines a freshness that's almost spritzy with the lingering flavours of ripe apples. Delectable and yes, you guessed it, different.