Bottle of the Week

Salute the suave white that sets off creamy Carrickbyrne and pungent Milleens with equal skill, while flattering the more delicate flavours of Durrus and MineGabhar, buttery Coolea and rich Gabriel, too. Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, Walker Bay, 1997/8 (outlets above, usually about £14.99) - one of South Africa's finest whites - combines gentle, nutty tones with a mineral undertow that is echoed in all of these cheeses. Worth splashing out on for a simple, sensational summer feast.