You could spend a week snooping around Irish wine shops and never spy a single Vouvray - never mind one from a reputable source. So all praise to Oddbins for stocking not just Vouvray, Bernard Fouquet, 1997 (Oddbins Baggot St, Blackrock, Clontarf, Churchtown, £7.99), but also three estate wines from this excellent producer at Domaine des Aubuisieres. This smooth effort, with a great rush of acidity and a tiny touch of honey, is bone dry.
Equally delicious - but a bit disastrous if you were to open it, say, with fish - is the much sweeter Vouvray Le Bouchet from Fouquet in an almost identical bottle, also £7.99. Beware - or be experimental and buy the two.