"It's an exquisite drink - all about frivolity and light-heartedness." Champagne Pol Roger Extra Dry White Foil, NV (outlets above, usually £27-£29) hadn't passed my lips for ages until Hugh Johnson tossed out that thirst-inducing description. And he's right. It's light and lively and brilliantly subtle, yet has terrific staying power. A perfect encapsulation of the qualities we all need for New Year's Eve.
By the way, less costly bubbles carrying the H.J. imprimatur include Green Point Brut, "the best sparkling wine yet from the New World" (£16-£17), Seaview Pinot Noir Chardonnay (usually £12.99) and a wide sampling of Blanquette de Limoux, including Domaine de l'Aigle Tradition Brut NV (usually £12.99).
