Merlot is the grape that has done most to catapult Chile into international markets. Often it is young, fruity and a shade too easy forgettable, but Marques de Casa Concha Merlot, Concha y Toro, 1995 (outlets above, £8.59-£8.99) is one of the newer breed - with much better breeding. Aged for a year in French oak and another in the bottle, this is serious stuff, a deeply enjoyable, firmly structured wine with a cedar and leather character that's more old world than new. Even Bordeaux-loving sceptics should succumb.