As a wine species of unparalleled coolness, New World Pinot Noir is hyped to the heavens but often too sweet for its own good, or curiously hollow in the middle - uncannily like an unsatisfactory love affair. Not so Green Point Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 1996 (outlets above, usually £13.99), an unusually restrained Australian.
Lush cherry fruit and layers of more complex flavours make it downright seductive, yet the overall impression is light and elegant. With loads of acidity, it would be lovely with the Chicken in Wine Vinegar, yet its cherry character could cope, if need be, with the Malted Ice Cream too. A versatile partner. Isn't that what every Valentine needs?
