A skincare topic that can bamboozle people almost as much as retinol is exfoliation. Is exfoliation important? How often should I do it? What products should I use?
Exfoliation can be beneficial for most skin types, but it’s one of the facets of skincare that can cause the most problems. People over-exfoliate, use the wrong acids for their skin, or simply use the wrong type of exfoliant.
There are plenty of benefits. Exfoliating helps slough away dead cells that can leave your skin looking dull and flat, smooths rough texture, and generally make your skin look brighter. Certain acids can also help with clogged pores, excess oil and breakouts.
There are different types of products available for exfoliation, and the ones I’m going to recommend are all chemical exfoliants. Physical exfoliants do exist – I’m sure we all remember the apricot scrub of our youth – but in my opinion, many are too harsh and abrasive. Our skin does not need to be scrubbed into submission. Chemical exfoliants work by (gently!) loosening the bonds between dead skin cells and allowing them to shed more easily.
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Once you’ve identified what you want to address – dry, textured or dull skin, congestion and breakouts, excess oil, or maybe skin that’s more on the sensitive side – then you can choose an exfoliant accordingly.
Within the chemical exfoliant category, there are different types.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, work primarily on the surface of the skin. These are the ones to use for dullness, uneven texture and generally smoother, brighter-looking skin. Glycolic acid can be quite potent, but it is incredibly effective. If you’re starting out, I’d recommend trying it’s gentler counterpart first, lactic acid. Excellent options include The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner (€9.60 from Boots), Skin Rocks The Gentle Acid (€69 from Space NK) and Elemis Dynamic Gentle Resurfacing Pads (€60 from millies.ie).
Beta Hydroxy Acids or BHAs work a bit differently. Salicylic acid is oil soluble, meaning it gets easily into oily pores, so it’s fantastic for congestion, breakouts and oilier skin. Salicylic acid products I recommended include Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant (€39 for 118ml from Space NK) and Trinny London Find Your Balance BHA Exfoliant (€46 from Brown Thomas).
Some great products combine AHAs and BHAs, such as Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Pads (€25 for a pack of five from Space NK).
Polyhydroxy acid or PHA is a particular favourite exfoliating acid of mine, an excellent all-rounder. Think of it as the gentler cousin of AHAs. PHAs have larger molecules, so they work more slowly and tend to cause less irritation, while still doing a stellar job, so they are a great option if you have sensitive skin, or if you’ve never used a chemical exfoliant before. I’m a long-time fan of Medik8 Press & Glow PHA Exfoliating Tonic (€42 from Meaghers Pharmacy) and Neostrata PHA Renewal Pads (€45 from theskinnerd.com).
Where people get into the most trouble with exfoliants is frequency of use. On the whole, exfoliating once or twice a week is more than enough. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to space that out even further and exfoliate once a week or even once every 10 days. If you’re oilier and dealing with congestion, your skin may tolerate more frequent exfoliation, depending on the product you’re using. But more is not better.
And before introducing an exfoliant, it’s important to keep in mind that healthy, happy skin will respond well to exfoliation. Stressed, sensitive or irritated skin will not. If your skin is red, inflamed, tight and generally reacting to everything, introducing an exfoliant is not the answer. Get your skin back to baseline first with barrier-repairing, soothing products and then, once you’re there, you can look at exfoliation.
Equally, once you do introduce an exfoliant, keep an eye on how your skin reacts. You may need to space it out a little further, and I’d follow with a good moisturiser to help support your skin barrier. Something like Medik8 Advanced Night Restore (€71.59 for 50ml from Space NK) or La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Soothing Cream (€26 from Boots).
Lastly, don’t forget sunscreen. Important every day, but arguably more so when you are using an exfoliant. Apply a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen liberally every morning, and reapply as necessary.
This week I’m loving ... Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Blur Loose Powder
I don’t know what I’m more impressed by when it comes to Charlotte Tilbury’s new Airbrush Flawless Blur Loose Powder (€54 from Brown Thomas): the exceptionally thin, finely milled, almost undetectable formula that seems to set and blur the under-eyes without making them look dry, cakey, old and haggard (just me?), or the very clever packaging.
A bugbear of mine is that loose powders tend to spill and go everywhere. Here, you screw off the lid to reveal an internal “click and seal” mechanism that acts like another lid and clicks shut to stop the powder escaping. It also comes with a cute heart-shaped puff for easy application. Available in seven shades, including Translucent, Brightening Pink and Brightening Peach.
