Blazing a trail to the best firesides

With the weather showing no sign of abating what we want is a real fire. ALANNA GALLAGHERrounds up 10 great places to roast your bones

Bewley’s

This Dublin institution on Grafton Street has six fireplaces, three of which are lit all of the time. The others are lit occasionally.

While there are less Dublin characters sheltering from the elements these days the Harry Clarke room still offers one of the best cross sections of city life. Here the fire is lit every day at 8am. Drink in the stained glass panels while indulging in their festive fare, two mince pies with cream (€3.50) washed down with a mint mocha (€2.95).

Or you could just relive your student days, staying warm as you sit for hours over a mug of milky white coffee and unwrap a cinnamon bun. Take the time to explore sculptor and owner Paddy Campbell’s Small Christmas, which is also a feature of the cafe’s Christmas windows.

bewleys.com or 01-6727720

Dublin hotels

The capital is ablaze with five-star hotels offering the warm and soothing comfort of an open fire.

Top of the heap for grandeur is the Shelbourne. The Lord Mayor’s Lounge isn’t the most private of hearths but it is cosy and serves afternoon tea as well as coffee and hot chocolate in silver pots. In the Merrion Hotel your have three open fires to choose from, two in the drawing room and one in No. 23 the cocktail bar.

The Fitzwilliam on St Stephen’s Green has a contemporary gas fire in its lobby while the Clarence’s Octagon bar boasts one of the best gas flame fires in the city. The Atrium bar in the Westin also has a gas-fuelled fire.

shelbourne-hotel.info or tel 01-6634500; merrionhotel.com or tel 01-6030600; fitzwilliamho teldublin.com or tel 01-4787000; theclarence.ie or tel 01-4070800; thewestindublin.com or tel 01-6451000

Posh places

Parknasilla outside Sneem, Co Kerry offers an old-fashioned room in which to toast your toes. The Doolittle Bar says it all. Why not pick up a book from the hotel’s library, curl up in a chair and lose yourself in the blazing turf.

Its large windows let you drink in the Kenmare Bay views and, when it gets dark, there’s a piano where you or someone in your group can tinkle the ivories and really get you in the mood for a sing-song. There is also music in the bar at weekends.

BB costs €129 per room per night (Sunday to Thursday) and from €149 per room per night at weekends.

Or head west to Westport and the Knockranny House Hotel’s Brehon Bar which has an open coal and wood fire. Overlooking Clew Bay, Crough Patrick and the town, the bar serves mulled wine, hot whiskey and hot chocolate, any of which will warm the cockles of your heart. Dinner and BB costs €120pps on Saturday nights.

parknasillahotel.ie or tel 064-6675600; khh.ie or tel 098-28600

Clare charm

Monk’s in Ballyvaughan, Co Clare (065-7077059) is an old-fashioned bar overlooking Galway Bay. It oozes charm. Sandra Gill runs the establishment with her mother, father and sisters.

Their peat fire is on from when the bar opens at noon until they close at night. Everyone goes mad for the fire, says Sandra. “In weather like this it’s the main seat of the house. There are fire hogs and people will go and ask if they can get in close to the warmth. If that doesn’t work there’s fire gazumping which happens all the time.”

There’s music on Friday and Saturday night and impromptu sessions when visitors bring in their own instruments and start playing. The bar serves thick, cream-based seafood chowder with doorsteps of home-made brown bread. Their Irish stew served with beef is especially warming.

Brendan Gleeson likes to pop in when he’s around. So does Fintan O’Toole. Why not stay the night? Fall up the stairs at closing time. BB costs €30 per person.

Tel 065-7077059

Ball of malt

The home fires at the Bushmills Inn in Portrush burn from 8am till 11pm. There are five real turf fires blazing around the building.

The fire in the gas-lit bar feels like you’ve travelled back in time but the inglenook fire at the entrance to the restaurant is the perfect place to indulge in a serious ball of fine malt. A nip of 12-year-old Bushmills from the nearby distillery costs €7.40 and is served with a jug of water to help open up the flavour.

Let the warmth of the hearth and easy rhythm of the rocking chairs lull you into an amber slumber. Previous guests include celebrity couple Christine Bleakley and Frank Lampard and Oscar the Grouch who no doubt gave any whiskey bores short shift.

Cottage-style rooms start about €94pp for BB while the more upscale four-poster bedrooms cost €148pp for BB.

bushmillsinn.com or tel 048-2073 3000

Mountain high

Johnnie Fox’s Pub in Glencullen in the Dublin mountains is a retreat favoured by serious A-listers. Colin Farrell likes to book out the pighouse for his family. But it is their fireside policy that is most appealing.

Women and children fresh from playing snowballs get first dibs on the fireside, says manager Fred Rainert. “It’s like being on the Titanic – except we’re sitting on the iceberg.”

The pub has three fires burning turf and logs. Book table 112 – it’s smack bang in front of the top kitchen and comes with its very own fire. On nights like this last orders are 9.30pm as the roads are treacherous. Why not leave the car and take the Express Bus, which picks up at several Dublin city centre hotels.

jfp.ie or tel 01-2955647

Fires for foodies

Roscommon is fast becoming one of Ireland’s foodie hubs. Roast at the fireside in the reception of Gleeson’s Townhouse and Restaurant in Roscommon town. The turf comes from the family bog.

Order their Irish stew. It is, according to Colman Andrews, founding editor of Saveur magazine and author of The Country Cooking of Ireland, the best in the world.

Owner Eamonn Gleeson says they sell over 100 portions a week. Stay overnight – BB costs €60. Breakfast is a feast of local produce. Cunniffe’s bacon and sausages from Ballaghdereen have been known to bring tears to the eyes of grown men. Ryan Tubridy is a fan. So is President Mary McAleese.

gleesonstownhouse.com or tel 0906-626954

Galway

Tigh Neachtain in Galway city is a character-filled establishment where the fire is on all day from when it opens at 10.30am.

Locals all have their own seat. Dennis, for example, likes to sit in the back bar beside the coal fire. This maintains a certain order, says manager Hal Briggs. “But Galway men are still very chivalrous – they will always give up their seat by the fire for a woman frozen with the cold.”

The cold weather has seen a spike in whiskey sales but their hot port is very well regarded – thanks to its secret ingredient. Live music helps raise the temperature in the bar. There’s a trad session on Tuesdays and bluegrass/jazz mix on Sundays.

tighneachtain.com or tel 091-568820

Kildare

Fallon’s in Kilcullen, Co Kildare is a restaurant with a bar where an alcove is framed by a blazing coal fire making it the cosiest spot in the house. There is bench and bistro seating for up to 15 in this part of the room. Great lunch deals, too.

Each day there is a one-pot wonder, such as steak and kidney pie, cottage pie or fish pie for only €10. On the way out lunch customers get a complimentary Java coffee to go in a takeaway cup – which will keep you warm on the walk back to your car. At night there’s mulled wine and a choice of traditional hot deserts; bread and butter pudding, sticky toffee pudding, apple crumble, Christmas pudding or traditional trifle. Their selection of speciality coffees includes French and Baileys coffee.

fallonb.ie or tel 045-481260

Waterford

For grandeur it’s hard to beat the Portland stone fireplace in the entrance hall at Waterford Castle. Burning big logs harvested on the estate, the fireplace is roomy enough to warm several bottoms at once. Pillar candles burn all around the 16th century fireplace. Sit on deep pile velvet upholstered seats and sofas while sipping the complimentary hot drinks that are offered on arrival.

Choose from a spiced apple cocktail, of apple juice, Morgan’s spiced rum, cinnamon and cloves or hot chocolate. Play king and queen of the castle and stay overnight from €119pps for dinner and BB. This will give you many more hours by the fireside to curl up with a book or play a game of chess.

waterfordcastle.com or tel 051-879316

Blazing breakfast

Enjoy the heat of a blazing fire as you tuck into a full Irish breakfast at the Landmark Hotel in Carrick on Shannon.

Two nights BB and one evening meal costs €150 per adult sharing. Children under 12 go free for BB.

The offer includes a fireside hot port.

thelandmarkhotel.com or tel 071-9622222

Afternoon escape

The wee bar in Harvey’s Point at Lough Eske, Co Donegal burns briquettes all day.

Turn your back on the world, bag one of the wingback chairs and stay there all day. Sip an Irish coffee.

Rooms from €99pp per night for BB.

harveyspoint.com or tel 074-9722208