WineA seven-course meal gave Bava wines a chance to shine, writes Joe Breen
The wine business has a lot of similarities with the popular-music industry besides a love of Champagne. Both have thousands of wannabe geniuses, both are dominated by corporations even though most of the vital creativity comes from independents and both are in thrall to fashion. The similarities came to mind after jokingly suggesting to Roberto Bava, a leading Italian winemaker, that he should commission a T-shirt with "Bava Wines on tour" on the back. He was in Dublin for the Irish leg of "Journey from Water to Wine: New Concepts in Contemporary Fish Cuisine", for which the Piedmontese family wine company has joined with the San Pellegrino water company to offer a wine, water and food tasting series in eight northern European countries.
The venue was Ely HQ, the new wine bar and restaurant on Hanover Quay in Dublin's rapidly developing south docks. This is Erik and Michelle Robson's third venue in addition to Ely wine bar, on Ely Place, and Ely CHQ, on Customs House Quay.
Along with similarly minded venues, such as the nearby Frank's Restaurant and Fallon & Byrne, on Exchequer Street, and more mature operations, such as the French Paradox, in Ballsbridge, they have given Dublin a range of eating places where diners can order good wine by the glass. (See Tom Doorley's review of Wine Upstairs, opposite.)
Ely's wine-by-the-glass offerings are impressive in quality and quantity and very good value. For under €10 a pop diners can experience styles from all over the wine world. And for a little more they get to sample serious wines, such as those of the Rhône star Stéphane Ogier or fine Rieslings from Hugel & Fils, in Alsace.
But this time we were in Ely to celebrate the Italian connection - for a dinner organised by Berry Bros & Rudd, which distributes Bava wines.
It was a seven-course meal. The highlight was the unlikely but delicious combination of smoked Irish eel, celeriac fondant, lamb's kidney poached in Barbera and smoked bacon. This was accompanied by the rich red fruit of Libera, Barbera d'Asti 2003. The balance of the flavours and textures was bang on the money.
Bava said that by the end of the tour, which started in Iceland and will end in Finland later this summer, lots of recipes will have been collected, so there will be a book. And maybe a T-shirt. jbreen@irish-times.ie
• Bava wines are available from Berry Bros & Rudd, Harry Street, Dublin 2, or www.bbr.com
SOMETHING FOR THE WEEKEND
O'Brien's this weekend launches another series of 20 per cent weekend discounts on wines of particular countries, beginning with New Zealand. As marketing ploys go this is a winner all round as the consumer can try more exotic - and expensive - fare without pain, while the increased footfall in shops will ensure greater ringing of the till. Ok, it's all computerised now but you get the drift!