Coat the duck legs all over with the salt. Press a star anise into the flesh of each, then the chopped tarragon. Place each leg between two slices of orange and leave in the fridge overnight.

Next day, rub off all excess salt, heat the duck fat, then place the legs and garlic in the fat. Turn down to a very low heat and cook for three hours, until the meat comes away from the bone. Set aside to cool enough for you to work with them, then pull the meat off and set it aside at room temperature.

Rinse the barley under cold water three times then boil it in salted water, until al dente. Drain and set aside.

Soak the wood chippings in water, strain them and place them into a metal steamer pot. Put the steamer basket on, add the cooked barley and cover with a lid. Smoke for seven minutes. It’s best to remove the lid either outside, or near an open window.

Now heat the olive oil and sweat the shallots. Add the barley, mix well, then de-glaze with white wine. Reduce the wine by half, season and then add the cream and cheeses. Bring to the boil, simmer and reduce until the desired consistency is reached.

Fold in the rocket, scallions and truffle oil and serve family-style.