Sauté of lamb kidneys, bay leaves and blackberries

1 Cut the kidneys in half lengthways and trim as much of the sinew off as you can, then season them with salt and pepper.

2 Heat the oil in a pan until it is gently smoking then place them cut-side down and cook for two minutes, gently pressing on the rounded side as they curl.

3 Turn them over then add the bay leaves to the pan and cook for one more minute. You want them lightly pink on the inside.

4 Deftly remove the kidneys and bay from the pan with a slotted spoon, leaving any juices, and turn down the heat to a flicker.

5 Add the chicken stock, let it bubble a little, then whisk in the butter.

6 When amalgamated, add the mustard and lemon, then add the kidneys and bay leaves back into the pan.

7 Check the seasoning then serve in warm bowls with the blackberries punctuating the top.