Spelling out Chardonnay's charms

The ABC wine movement – Anything But Chardonnay – is finally giving way to CBA – Chardonnay's Back Again, writes JOHN WILSON

SOME OF YOU will be aware of the ABC movement, which was founded roughly a decade ago, an underground group dedicated to finding alternatives to the then ubiquitous Chardonnay grape.

ABC meant Anything But Chardonnay, and was a reaction to a sea of uninteresting, often over-oaked wines that seemed to dominate every shop shelf and wine list in the land. I was a card-carrying member, but only ever half-hearted, as Chardonnay is one of the world’s great white varieties and should never be ignored. Talking to O’Briens wine buyer Lynne Coyle recently, she came up with a new acronym, CBA, or Chardonnay’s Back Again. However, Chardonnay never really went away. The style may have changed, but it remains central to the national taste buds.

Chardonnay can vary hugely in style, and one problem consumers have is distinguishing what kind of wine they are buying. At the moment, the preferred style is light, fresh and crisp, made possible even in warmer climates by early picking and avoiding oak. Some are now labelled unwooded or unoaked, which can be a help. If not, a peek at the back label can help; any reference to spicy or toasty usually means oak. Few producers can resist fermenting or ageing their more expensive wines in new oak, and the newer the oak, the more pervasive the influence. I find a little can add something to the wine, but too much masks the natural flavours.

Burgundy is the home of Chardonnay, although you will rarely find it mentioned on the label. Virtually every other wine region in the world, unless it has its own firmly established varieties, grows some Chardonnay. I will devote two weeks to Chardonnay: this week six wines that have never seen any new oak at all; and next week, Australian Chardonnay.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Chablis, Domaine de la Boissonneuse 2008, 12.5%, €24Julien Brocard is the son of Jean-Marc Brocard, one of the larger but ultra-reliable domaines in Chablis. Julien was keen to make biodynamic wine. His father was less sure, and suggested he make it under his own name, in a separate plot. This is a wonderfully complex wine, with a relatively rich (for a Chablis) nose and a palate of grilled almonds, honey, green apple and pear. It finishes with a strong mineral note. A great wine by any standard. Stockists: McCabe's, Blackrock and Foxrock, Dublin.

Domaine de Roally Mâcon villages 2006, 13.5%, €18.08– on offer at €16.20 for the month of July Made by the master of Mâcon, Jean Thévenet, this is a delicious wine that is far superior to many more expensive bottles from Burgundy. Lovely defined pure apple fruits on the nose; rich and luscious honeycomb with some golden yellow apple and ripe quince. A very enjoyable wine with real class and good length. Stockist: Wines Direct, winesdirect.ie, tel: 1890-579579

Springfield Estate Wild Yeast Chardonnay 2004, 14%, €21Springfield Estate is best known for its Sauvignon Blanc, but also does make some very special Chardonnay. The Wild Yeast Chardonnay, made as the name suggests, is made from indigenous yeasts. Relatively full bodied with wonderfully pure clean pineapple and pear fruits, it has a nutty edge and excellent length. Stockists: Next Door, Ennis, Salthill and Raheen; Claudio's Wines, Newtownmountkennedy; Power Smullen, Lucan; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; Red Island, Skerries; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Searson's Wine Merchants, Dublin.

Umathum Trockenbeerenauslese 2004, Burgenland, Austria, 12.5%, €35Chardonnay can occasionally produce some outstanding sweet wines. This example is from Austria. Astonishingly unctuous, rich and sweet with a huge intensity of orange peel and tangerine, overlaid with a distinctive nutty note. One glass of this would be all you could manage, which, given the price, is probably a good thing. It will, however, keep in the fridge once opened. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Sweeney's, Glasnevin, Lilac Wines, Fairview; Thomas's, Foxrock; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock.

TWO UNDER €12

Simone Joseph Chardonnay 2008, Vin de Pays d'Oc, 13%, €11.50This is very nicely crafted Chardonnay with an excellent balance of medium rich fruit and fine acidity, finishing bone dry. There is no oak, so the pure flavours of Chardonnay shine through. Given the price it is a bit of a steal. Try this with richer white fish dishes or cold salmon. Stockists: Thestoreroom.ie; The Wine Room @ No1 Pery Square, Limerick; French Flair, Tralee; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; The Kitchen Project, Clonakilty; Cases Wine Warehouse, Galway; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock.

Leyda Chardonnay 2008, Leyda Valley, Chile, €10.50The Leyda Valley in Chile is one of the cooler regions, proving very successful with white varieties and Pinot Noir. This unoaked wine is medium-bodied and rounded, but shot through with cleansing lemon and lime. Fresh and full of apple fruits, this would be perfect on its own, or with most seafood. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Ardkeen Foodstores, Waterford; Next Door, Kilkee; Listons, Camden Street; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Mac's Limerick; Keller's, Tipperary; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny.

Make mine a pint

BREWERY NEWS

The latest very welcome addition to the Irish beer scene is micro-brewery Dungarvan Brewing Company. Set up by brothers-in-law Tom Dalton and Cormac O'Dwyer (pictured below) along with their wives Jen and Claire, they already offer three beers in bottle, Black Rock Irish Stout, Copper Coast Red Ale, and Helvick Blond Gold Ale, although they promise to brew up seasonal specialities as well. All are brewed in Dungarvan and are bottled unfiltered and unpasteurised. The bottled beers are currently available in many local pubs as well as off-licences and pubs nationwide, and on draught in a few local pubs. See www.dungarvanbrewingcompany.com for stockists.

BEER OF THE WEEK

Schlenkerla Helles Lagerbier Brauerei Heller, Bamberg, 4.3% Schlenkerla is an historic brew-pub in Bamberg in Bavaria, famous for its smoked beer. However, it was the lager I tasted, a very enjoyable summer beer, light but full of hoppy flavour and a crisp, very dry finish.