South Africa offers a range of world-class wines from chenin blanc

Following on from last week’s article on South Africa’s unique red wines, this week a look at a French white grape variety that has been adopted there with great success. Chenin blanc is something of a chameleon, one of the few grapes capable of producing every style of wine – sparkling, dry, medium-dry, and sweet – including some of the world’s greatest wines.

It originates in the Loire Valley, where names such as Vouvray, Savennières, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux will all be made entirely from chenin. The best examples age for decades, taking on complex and fascinating flavours.

The Loire may be its ancestral home, but South Africa has the largest plantings of chenin blanc in the world (followed by California), where it still accounts for about a quarter of all grapes, and is the most widely planted grape variety.

It was brought there back in the mid-17th century by Jan Van Riebeeck, the first commander of the Cape, and quickly became popular with growers, as it produced good yields and managed to retain acidity in the hot South African sun.

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In what was a case of familiarity breeding contempt, for many years chenin was relegated to the production of cheap brandy or inexpensive bulk wine. It is only in recent years that growers have sought to rehabilitate the variety, seeking out the best vineyards, the oldest vines, and cutting yields. As a result, South Africa now offers a range of world-class wines from chenin blanc.

Some have gone down the chardonnay route (chenin takes well to a little oak ageing) producing plump, textured wines with tropical fruits; others prefer a leaner, more refreshing style. As mentioned previously, there is a significant “low-interventionist” movement in South Africa, particularly in the Swartland region, as well as a number of amber wine producers.

The textured style goes really well with white meats and richer fish recipes, while the lighter style makes a great aperitif as well as providing a great match for plaice, sea bass and mussels.

It is still possible to find inexpensive chenin blanc; both Aldi and Lidl sell one for €5.59 and €5.69 respectively. But spend a little more – from €10 upwards – and you will certainly notice a difference.

Independents have the deliciously fruity Fairview chenin for €18.50, as well as the stylish DMZ (€20) and the fabulous rich complex DeMorgenzon Reserve for €44. Kinnegarwines.com has a great range of high-quality wines from South Africa. O’Briens has a very good range of well-priced chenin, including the refreshing Delheim Chenin Blanc 2019 (€13.95), the rich, textured Delheim Wild Ferment Chenin Blanc 2018 (€18.95) as well as the excellent Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc, currently out of stock.

The Liberator The Francophone Chenin Blanc 2019, Stellenbosch
13.5%, €14.95
Crisp refreshing lightly textured fleshy white peaches that will brighten up your staycation. Drink it by itself or with grilled plaice or sea bass.
From: Morton's, Dublin 6, mortons.ie; Barnhill Stores, Dalkey, barnhillstores.ie; The Wine House, Trim; The Wine Pair, Dublin 8; Grape & Bean, Portlaoise, grapeandbean.ie; Pat FitzPatrick's, Dingle, Co Kerry.

Testalonga Baby Bandito Keep on Punching 2017, Swartland
12%, €22
Light, bone dry, almost austere, with concentrated crisp yellow fruits, thyme and a steely acidity. Try it with sushi, oysters or smoked mackerel paté.
From: McHughs, Dublin 5, mchughs.ie; Bradleys Off-licence, Cork, bradleysofflicence.ie; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth; elywinebar.ie.

Jonty's Ducks 2017 Pekin White, Paarl (Organic)
13%, €22.95
Fresh and aromatic with bright, tangy lime and nectarines. Perfect accompanied by a plate of seared scallops with citrus butter. 
From: Searsons, Monkstown, searsons.com.

Craven Chenin Blanc 2017, Karibib Vineyard, Stellenbosch
12.5%, €30
Layers of complex flavours including dried herbs, waxy white stone fruits, and a saline mineral acidity. Good with salmon tartar or prawns with creamy pasta.
From: Green Man Wines, Dublin 6, greenmanwines.ie.