Donal Skehan: Home is where the hearty food is

I've been back in Ireland for a couple of weeks now, I'm very sorry to say that the LA tan has long washed down the shower drain and with a "visit" that takes us right up until Christmas, I'm back in full Irish mode.

In a move more suited to a movie filled with Americans trying their best dodgy Irish accents, the first thing I cooked when we finished unpacking the suitcases was an Irish stew.

Can you blame me?

I can think of no other dish that would give someone a more instant hit of home. With slow braised chunks of lamb shoulder, carrots and potatoes, it is the epitome of Ireland, served warm in a bowl.

In fact, it was this traditional slow-cooked stew that has set the tone for the much-needed winter cooking which the colder weather requires.

Los Angeles’ Korean barbecue, food trucks and outdoor taco joints are like a distant memory as I tuck into roasted root vegetables made sweet in the oven, hearty soups bulked out with pearl barley and slow roasts on a Sunday.

Steamy windows and a warm kitchen – they’re what this season’s cooking is all about.

Buttery pastry

Our dog Max, who my parents have adopted for the past nine months, is happy not only to have us home but it turns out he’s been also happily bulking up for the winter by feasting on the leftovers my dad leaves out for him.

I've been informed by my wife this habit of begging at the table (one my dad is taking some serious heat for) is one that will be stopping as soon as he makes it to Los Angeles in the new year.

Who knew there was also a Californian diet for dogs?

For now though, after months of living out of a suitcase – it’s good to be home and eating the food I was reared on.

The recipes here should serve as a simple late autumn or early winter lunch.

A tart comprised of ingredients I would quite happily serve as a simple salad with some winter leaves but – wrapped up nicely in a buttery pastry base, it makes a sophisticated starter than can be prepared in advance.

For mains, it’s all about slow braising, in this case a shoulder of sweet lamb in beer which makes for the most delicious feast served with a lighter mash made with butter beans.

Of course you could serve it with any choice of root vegetable to pay homage to the season’s bounty.