Wine: O'Briens wasn't to know that Munster would be facing Biarritz on the day of its wine fair. Despite the distraction of the rugby, plenty of people took advantage of a bargain
The man stood in line with the rest of us while a woman shared a giggle with the woman from Astrolab, the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc producer. He was clearly agitated. "Come on. Hurry up. I've a match to catch . . ."
When O'Briens opted last Christmas to set May 20th as the date for its annual wine fair, it had good reason for doing so. The previous week, London Wine and Spirit Fair had drawn winemakers from all over the world to show their wines. Any number of them would need little convincing to add on a weekend in Dublin.
But the best-laid plans can go awry, especially where Munster is involved. The O'Briens management team must have had very mixed emotions when Munster qualified to meet Biarritz in the Heineken Cup Final in Cardiff. It could have been worse - it could have been Leinster, where most of the O'Briens shops are located.
Nevertheless, there was a solid turnout at the RDS. There are many tastings for trade and press, but the O'Briens event is one of few open to the public. Tickets cost €10, which was a bargain. For that sum the avid wine-lover got the opportunity to taste in excess of 150 wines from more than 50 stands - and some clearly took full advantage. Having tasted, they could then order their selection at a discount.
They certainly were an enthusiastic lot of wine drinkers of all ages, entering into animated and informed discussions with winemakers about vintages, grape selections, styles and flavours.
At the Brocard stand, the Chablis producer happily went through what was essentially a vertical tasting of his premier cru and grand cru wines from recent years. Elsewhere, we were impressed by Francis Coppola's Rubicon 2001, but then at €85 a bottle we would want to be.
There were many opportunities to taste such exclusive fare, but O'Briens strength is its ability to source value-for-money offerings, such as the Blanc 2004 from the Irish-owned Domaine des Anges, which is well worth €11.49.
As the witching hour of 3pm approached, it was noticeable that the crowd thinned out. Even some of those manning the stands had deserted their posts. The wine was no match for the match.
Natural taste?
The Austrian thinker Rudolph Steiner is credited with inspiring biodynamic farming, a fascinating concept that is gaining support among winemakers. Some who have tried it - basing their work around the cycles of the moon - report improvements in the health of their vineyards and the vibrancy of their wines. On Friday, at 7.30pm, Urse Van Demia of Van Demia Wines will introduce a biodynamic -wine tasting at Camphill Community Greenacres, Dublin 14 (beside Airfield House). Admission is €15 (€8 concessions). Further details from 01-2987618.
Bottles of the week
Beaumont des Crayères Fleur de Prestige 1998, €35 (on offer at €29.99) Classically biscuit-flavoured Champagne with good fruit and body. The offer price makes it a steal for a vintage sparkler. From O'Briens.
Fritsch Riesling Wagramer Classik 2005, €13.99 This well-made Riesling is balanced, with clean apple and pear fruit, a hint of lime and good acidity. It is a fine example of what Austria is capable of producing - and further proof of how this noble variety is true to its terroir. From O'Briens.
Rasteau vin doux naturel Red Signature 2001, 50cl, €17.99 This fortified dessert and aperitif wine, made from 30- to 40-year-old Grenache vines in the Rhône village of Rasteau, is produced only in special vintages - and what a head-turner it is. Lean and elegant yet powered by intense summer fruit and restrained sweetness. Simply lovely.
From O'Briens.