Gentle poaching coaxes the best from cheaper cuts of meat, writes Hugo Arnold
I have an earthenware pot that stands taller than it is wide. The pale-brown bottom third of the pot, which is unglazed, is crusted with juices that we missed during the washing-up and became baked on for eternity the next time we used it. The top half has a shiny glaze. At least it was shiny when new. Now it, too, is encrusted.
I will use this vessel constantly over the next few weeks. What I put in it will vary, but the idea is the same: one-pot cooking of the slow kind. There are other occasions when slow cooking gets complicated, but this is a pot bought for simplicity.
Irish stew is one of my favourites, but this approach works with beef, too. Poaching may not sound quite as appealing as roasting, but there is a subtlety and nuance that makes it attractive, if not always preferable. Herbs help to lend complexity, and slow cooking is essential.
Poaching is ideal for the cheaper cuts: chicken legs and thighs; lamb from the shoulder, neck and shin; and silverside, topside, blade, chuck steak and brisket of beef are all ideal.
And if you choose to go the vegetarian route, this is an idea way to cook those roots we have been feasting on for the past weeks, along with pulses and grains.
Baked potatoes are a good accompaniment, with the advantage of sitting in the oven at the same time, but rice, couscous and polenta are all suitable for soaking up the juices. For added zip, a freshly-made salsa or relish adds complexity. Parsley, capers and an anchovy or two mashed up with a generous slug of olive oil brought a lamb hotpot alive for me recently. If time is short, a pot of chutney lurking at the back of the cupboard could help to provide some welcome acidity and sweetness. I like mango, but apple and tomato are also good.
It is not always necessary to add stock when poaching lamb, but it is crucial to add it to beef and chicken. Do I use stock cubes? Certainly. But some are decidedly better than others. Kallo is one of my favourite brands, now widely available. Swiss Marigold powdered bouillon is particularly good and worth looking out for. All can be improved by a quick poaching with some fresh vegetables; even 10 minutes adds a welcome freshness to the stock.
All of these dishes need time for the flavours to develop, and, if you have the opportunity, I encourage you to leave them overnight in the fridge before eating. What results is always so much greater than the sum of its parts.