WINE:A visit to a vineyard to taste the local produce can be the perfect holiday treat for wine enthusiasts, writes John Wilson
HARD-CORE WINE LOVERS often base their holidays around wine, travelling to their favourite area each year, visiting producers, often coming home with a bottle or too as well. You may not share quite the same enthusiasm for wine, but a visit to a winery can be great fun.
It is always easier to understand a wine
when you have visited the area, talked to the people and eaten the food. Every region has its own unique combination of climate, soil, culture, history and economics. It is fascinating to see how it all evolves into a glass of wine. You can buy from the local wine shop or supermarket, but it is much more fun to visit the man or woman directly responsible for the product.
If you are heading off to the US, South Africa, Australia or New Zealand, you are likely to find well-developed tasting facilities, sometimes with a shop, picnic area or even restaurant attached. In the past, European producers were not geared up to receive visitors. Some were downright rude. However, this is slowly changing. Larger enterprises may well have some amenities, although few are as lavish and welcoming as their counterparts the New World. It is important to remember that many European enterprises are essentially small farms. They may not speak perfect English, and often are very busy. It makes sense to ring ahead and make an appointment to avoid disappointment.
On any visit, you will generally be offered one or more wines to taste. Usually there will be a spittoon handy to off-load the wine. It is worth practising your spitting while brushing your teeth for a few days before, to avoid embarrassing dribbles! Show a little interest, ask a few questions, and most producers will be only too pleased to tell you all about their wines, and may even throw in valuable tips about the best local restaurants and hotels. It is considered polite to buy a few bottles, even a case, if you like the wines. You may be offered a discount if you buy in quantity. Smaller operations will not have credit card facilities, so have some cash to hand.
If you are buying at the cellar door, it is worth checking out the prices first. Some wineries in the US are far more expensive than the supermarket around the corner. I have also found a number of Bordeaux Châteaux extortionately expensive. You will find far cheaper prices in a number of very well-stocked Bordeaux wine shops. But, generally speaking, you should save money by buying directly from source.
Those travelling by plane will be able to bring only a limited number of bottles home, although this should not stop you making a few visits. You can always drink most of your purchase on the campsite, or wherever you are staying. But shipping small quantities of wine home will be prohibitively expensive, and you will be liable for duty (currently €2.25 per bottle) and VAT at 21 per cent on top of that. However, if you accompany the goods, and they are for your own personal use, these taxes do not apply.
Choosing a bottle is not difficult - you should simply buy what you like. However, the professional wine-buyer will always taste the wine at home before committing to a purchase. A wine drunk over a wonderful lunch on a sun-filled patio can taste very different on a wet Wednesday in Dublin. If you are on holiday, this will not be possible, but do try before you buy, and even bring a couple of bottles back to your campsite or gîte before you make a large purchase.
I would certainly suggest buying local. Most European regions pay little heed to wines produced elsewhere. You will find a superb selection of Burgundy in Burgundy, but do not try looking for Bordeaux. I find it is the middle-priced wines (€3-€8), that offer the best value. Europe still produces plenty of the very cheap and undrinkable, but you should not inflict these on your friends at home. The more expensive wines (over €10) are often the same price or less in Ireland, as the duty accounts for a lower proportion of the cost.
It is worth investing in a book with the names, addresses and phone numbers of local producers. Alternatively, the local tourist office will probably have a brochure. If you are heading to France, two books stand out: The New France by Andrew Jefford (Mitchell Beazley) is fairly serious and brilliantly opinionated, but certainly contains all of the best names, while The Wines of France by Jacqueline Friedrich (Ten Speed Press) offers personal notes on a huge number of producers, backed up by real knowledge and passion.
Here are wines from four wine regions, all with something to offer.
Happy hunting!
The Loire
One of the most beautiful parts of France, with a treasure trove of every kind of wine. I would be tempted by the lovely light reds of Chinon and Bourgeuil, but my favourite everyday tipple is Muscadet. I spent a very happy week's holiday in Britanny drinking little else. The best will cost about €3-€5 a bottle. Buy the youngest vintage, with "sur lie" on the label.
Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie Domaine Pierre de la Grange, Luneau-Pepin 2006, 12%,€ 9.95.An exceptional Muscadet at the price, with delicious pure pear and apple fruits, a clean mineral streak and a very long finish. Those who love dry wine will drink it solo, but it would go amazingly well with mussels and other seafood. Stockists: Cashel Wine Cellar, Co Tipperary; Shannon Knights, Shannon, Co Clare; Carryout, Kinsale; Carryout Washington Street, Cork.
The Languedoc
Another fantastic place to buy wines locally. These are probably the friendliest producers in France, always ready to have a chat, and explain their wines in detail. It helps that there are some terrific wines being produced, often by ever so slightly eccentric people. The reds in particular are great, perfectly suited to the Irish autumn and winter weather when you arrive home!
Nord Sud Viognier Laurent Miquel, Vin de pays d'Oc 2006, 13.5%, € 10.49. Not only do they welcome visitors here, but you may well come across Cornelscourt girl Neasa Cormish, who is married to Monsieur Miquel. The wines are getting better and better here. I featured the Syrah earlier this year, but the Viognier is pretty good too, with fresh textured apricots and a hint of vanilla spice. Try it with grilled fish or chicken. Stockists: Dunnes Stores.
The Rhône
The Rhône is making some of the best wines in France at the moment. One worthwhile trip is to the small town of Gigondas, perched half-way up the massive Dentelles. Drive or scramble to the top for an impressive view, then head back down to the town to taste as many Gigondas as you like in the local syndicate shop. Decisions made, you can then drive around to buy from your favourite producer, although you could get waylaid by one of the excellent restaurants in the surrounding area.
Gigondas Domaine la Bouïssiere 2006, 14.5%, €23.50-€24.50.Not as rustic or tannic as some Gigondas, the Bouïssiere has very classy smooth powerful dark fruits, underpinned by some spicy oak and black pepper. This would go very nicely with game or red meats. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Donnybrook Fair; Sixty Four Wine, Glasthule; Redmonds, Ranelagh; The Drinks Store, Manor St.; Deveney's, Dundrum; Cases, Galway; Vanilla Grape, Kenmare; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Red Island, Skerries.
Alicante
Yecla, a small Spanish town, is an hour's drive west of Alicante. Until recently, it specialised in furniture and bulk wine. But over the past decade, the wines have improved enormously, largely led by Bodegas Castaño, one of the half-a-dozen producers in the region. They welcome visitors in their brand new bodegas. The best wines are based on the local speciality Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre in France). They are big and bold, and go brilliantly with barbecued red meat.
Bodegas Castaño Monastrell 2006, Yecla, 14%, €11.49.Powerful dark plum and loganberry fruits, nicely rounded, that slip down all too easily. Perfect barbecue wine with pork or beef. Stockists: Sixty Four Wine, Glasthule; The Bottle Shop, Meath Street; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St.; Power & Smullen, Lucan; www.wineonline.ie