Best in show

A recent wine competition highlighted the best of France's Vins de Pays on sale in Ireland

A recent wine competition highlighted the best of France's Vins de Pays on sale in Ireland

It is that time of the year when competitions and massive tastings hold sway as importers, major chains and supermarkets eagerly eye the run-up to Christmas. As with music and books, so with wine: everybody is vying for your cash in this, the most concentrated retail period of the year.

But it is also a time of opportunity for consumers. There is now so much wine available in the supermarkets and independent off-licences that consumers can use competition results to help navigate through the maze of bottles and target only the best.

However, all competition results require health warnings. They are the judgments of a small number of usually highly-qualified people on a limited number of bottles submitted by importers, often with e conditions attached. The recent National Off-Licence (NOFLA) wine awards, for instance, did not include wines imported by supermarkets.That said, there is plenty of gold to be mined.

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Sopexa, the marketing body for French food and wine, recently released the results of a competition to find the 30 best Vins de Pays available in Ireland. Formerly known as "country wines", they hail from over 140 regions. Today they constitute some of the best value to be had in France, from some of the most adventurous producers. The trouble is that Vins de Pays also produce an awful lot of dross, so a helping hand in identifying the best is always useful.

Interestingly, despite the ever-rising graph of prices, 23 of the final selection retail at under €15, with 10 selling for under €10. (Judges were asked to bear in mind value for money along with quality.) And of the 33 importers who submitted wines, Rhône specialists Tyrrell & Co and Dunnes Stores both had four entries in the final 30, while Mitchell & Son had three.

Having tasted all 30 wines, I can report that the judging panel were bang on the case. The reds in particular were often spectacular (see bottles of the week for my pick). The full list of winning wines is available from Sopexa. u jbreen@irish-times.ie

Sopexa Ireland, 01-2833000; e-mail info@sopexaireland.com