Buckwheat pancakes are the smell of autumn breakfast in West Virginia

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I live in West Virginia and when autumn rolls around one thing I look forward to is the smell of Preston County buckwheat pancakes for breakfast, although here they are called buckwheat cakes. Preston County is located one county over from Monongalia County where I live.

Preston County is about 2,000ft (600m) above Monongalia County and, when the temperature hovers around the freezing mark, Preston County gets snow while Monongalia County receives rain.

Buckwheat is grown in Preston County and every year it sponsors the Buckwheat Festival around the end of September. For me it marks the beginning of autumn because soon afterwards the leaves begin to change colour.

I had never tasted buckwheat cakes before I came to West Virginia. The flour definitely has a different flavour from white flour, and the cakes taste great with sausages. The recommendation is to use an iron griddle for the best results, but I generally use a non-stick griddle.

The cakes are tastier if you spread pork fat on the griddle to stop them from sticking but, being a city girl, I use a thin coat of butter or oil instead. Many people here make sausage gravy to go with the cakes, and that adds to a hearty breakfast. Also, it’s best to spread syrup over the cakes for that sweet taste and especially maple syrup if you can buy it. Maple syrup is plentiful here in West Virginia because there are lots of maple trees. And you can add blueberries to the batter for a fruity flavour.

Irish road bowling

An interesting tidbit about the Preston County Buckwheat Festival is that Irish road bowling is included as one of their main events. Road bowling has become a popular sport all over West Virginia, but I think it’s especially at home in Preston County because of the rural and agricultural connection.

The batter for Preston County Raised Buckwheat Cakes needs to be let sit for at least four to five hours – and ideally overnight – but on the day the pancakes take just about 10 minutes to prepare.

This is the original recipe that has been used for decades in our area. It will make about eight to 12 pancakes, serving about two to four people.

Many households had this every morning for breakfast served with sausage, bacon, eggs, sausage gravy, and maple syrup as toppings. Apple butter is also very good. Most people spread butter on each layer before eating as well.

These are not called pancakes here and are not nearly as thick as pancakes when prepared properly. The batter should be thin enough to spread out on its own to about a 7in (17cm) circle without using the ladle to spread.

Most people use a large measuring cup with a spout or a pitcher with a spout to pour them out onto the griddle. Traditionally a piece of pork fat skewered onto a fork was used to grease the griddle before each cake was baked.

A well-seasoned cast-iron griddle is the only way I have found to successfully make these. Save at least a cup of the batter to use as a starter for the next batch (this will give a sour taste – sort of like sourdough) you want to make them again. These pancakes are most excellent. Hope you enjoy.

Ingredients

¼ ounce/7g dried yeast or 1 cake Fleischmann’s fresh yeast

1 tsp salt

1 quart/946ml of lukewarm water

3 cups/360g buckwheat flour

When ready to bake

½ tsp baking soda

½ tsp baking powder (optional)

1 tsp salt

2 tsp sugar

1 cup/235ml hot water (or half milk and water)

To renew

1 pint/473ml lukewarm water

½ tsp salt

1 cup/120g buckwheat flour (to make a stiff batter)

Method

In a large bowl, mix 1 cake Fleischmann’s yeast or 1 envelope of dry yeast and 1 tsp salt into one quart lukewarm water. Let it stand a few minutes and then add 3 cups of buckwheat flour or enough to make a stiff batter. (Or you can use 2½ cups buckwheat flour and ½ cup all-purpose flour). Cover and let stand overnight – or for at least four to five hours).

When ready to make the “cakes”, dissolve ½ tsp baking soda, ½ teaspoon baking powder and 2 tsp sugar in 1 cup of hot water (or you may use ½ cup milk).

Stir into the batter, then add about 1 cup or enough warm water to make a thin batter.

Bake on a hot, greased griddle.(I use the medium-high setting on my electric stove.)

Use a long, thin metal turner to lift the edges and check the bottom. It should be golden brown and bubbles should form on top. Flip and cook on the other side until done.

We usually serve in stacks of two to four cakes each.

Save at least 1 cup of the batter for the next time. (It will keep in the refrigerator for about a week.) To renew, add 1 pint lukewarm water, ½ teaspoon salt and enough buckwheat flour to make a stiff batter. Cover and let it stand overnight or for at least four to five hours. Then you are ready to make them again. Enjoy.