Georgia will celebrate its Independence Day on the 26th of this month. It was one of the very first places in the world to grow grapes and ferment them into wine. Despite experiencing the Soviet era when quantity was valued over quality, Georgia has managed to retain its unique ancient grape varieties and winemaking methods that go back 8,000 years.
In Soviet times, Georgian wines were very highly regarded. Many of the white and red wines were sweet and mass-produced. These still exist, but since independence, Georgia has had various political disagreements with Russia. These have frequently led to an embargo on wine, so Georgia has turned to western Europe and North America with some success.
Any conversation about Georgian wine will start with kvevri or qvevri. These are large earthenware amphorae with an interior coating of beeswax. They are used to ferment, store and mature wine. They vary in size and can have a capacity of up to 10,000 litres, with 800 to 2,000 litres being typical. They are buried in the ground with only the neck showing and sealed with a mixture of beeswax and clay. Qvevri were used to store other liquids as well as grain, butter and other foodstuffs. They were often used for winemaking in Portugal, Spain and Armenia as well.
Traditionally, the grapes were crushed and added to the qvevri, which was then sealed. White grapes in contact with the amphora took on an orange colour and distinctive tannic bite that we now call orange or amber wine. Unesco has added winemaking with qvevri to its Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
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Tasting Georgian wine is an adventure into the past and the unknown. They won’t be to everyone’s taste, but I would urge you to give them a go. I would imagine the Georgians would enjoy the wines below with a supra, a traditional feast featuring a variety of dishes, typically including meat, Mediterranean vegetables and khachapuri (cheese-filled bread).
Qvevris Kisi 2022 Orange Wine, Dugladze Winery, Kakheti
12%, €16
A great introduction to Georgia and orange wine. Succulent peaches and honey with tangy orange peel, an earthy touch and very light tannins.
From Marks & Spencer
Bedoba, White 2024, Rkatsiteli, Kisi, Kakheti
13.5%, €24.95
Lightly textured with ripe peaches, toasted almonds and fennel finishing dry.
From The Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Red Island Wine, Skerries, Co Dublin; Bradleys, Cork
Ramaz Nikoladze, Tsitska Solikouri 2024, Imereti, Georgia
12%, €30.85
This qvevri skin contact wine is a wonderful mix of tangy orchard fruits, rich peach, dried citrus peel, and crisp savoury tannins. Different and delightful.
From Lecaveau.ie; L’Atitude 51, Cork
Saperavi 2022, Beka Urjukashvili, Khakheti, East Georgia
12.8%, €32.70
Made by a former rugby player, this is not short of muscle, with very refined grippy tannins, tight ripe dark fruits, and a long dry finish.
From L’Atitude 51, Cork; Lecaveau.ie
