Most of the new and exciting wines that we have discovered in recent years actually come from vineyards that have been around for centuries, but have fallen out of favour for various reasons. This week, we have four new/old wines to discover.
It is believed that wine has been made in what is now North Macedonia for 4,000 years. Grapes are the second most important agricultural crop, and great efforts are being made to modernise the business there as the country seeks to join the EU. Vranec is the most widely planted grape variety, but our bottle is made from kratosija, otherwise known as primitivo.
While many Irish people have holidayed in the Canaries at some stage, how many of us have tried the local wine? Seven of the eight islands produce wine and have done since the Spanish first arrived in the early 15th century. Many of the soils are volcanic, giving a lively edge to the wines. The primary red grape is the indigenous listán negro, which forms part of the blend in the 7 Fuentes below.
Vines were first planted on Mount Etna by the Greeks in the 7th century BC, but the wines were little known until recently. Over the last decade or so, there has been a surge in interest with many producers from the mainland of Italy buying up vineyards. The reds are usually made from a blend of the local nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio varieties. The white wines, which can be stunning, usually feature the carricante variety. I feature one from the pioneering Terre Nere estate.
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Georgia is the birthplace of wine (although the Armenians would beg to differ) and produces some unique styles of wine, using obscure local grapes, often fermented in clay amphorae in contact with the skins. The featured bottle is one such wine.
M&S Found Kratosija 2024 North Macedonia
12%, €12.50
An attractive medium-bodied wine with dark cherry and plum fruits and a tannin-free finish. Try it with cold meats or semi-firm cheeses.
From Marks & Spencer
Suertes del Marqués 7 Fuentes Tinto 2021, Tenerife
12.5%, €25
Savoury with tangy red cherry fruits and light dusty tannins. Try it with grilled pork chops or firm cheeses.
From Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Lilith, Dublin 7; 64 Wine, Glasthule and Mount Merrion, Co Dublin; Whelehans, Loughlinstown, Co Dublin; Sweeney’s D3; Fion Eile, Dublin 7; MacCurtain, Cork
Iago Bitarishvili Chinuri 2024, Kartli, Georgia
12%, €30.85
Waxy rounded stone fruits overlaid with herbs, walnuts and a lightly tannic tangy finish. Intriguing wine. Drink alongside sushi, Khachapuri (Georgian cheese-filled bread), or chicken dishes.
From BaRossa Wines, Dublin 4; Bradleys, Cork; Fion Eile; MacCurtain; Lilith; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; Mitchell & Son, Glasthule and The Vaults, Dublin 2; Neighbourhood Wines; 64 Wine
Tenuta delle Terre Nere Bianco 2024, Etna, Sicily
12.5%, €38.50
Light but full of flavour. Crisp citrus peel, nectarines and pears with a mineral saline finish. Enjoy it with prawns, scallops or creamy pasta dishes.
From Eleven Deli, Greystones, Co Wicklow and Killiney, Co Dublin; Mitchell & Son, Glasthule and The Vaults; Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2; 64 Wine; Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; Jus de Vin, Portmarnock, Co Dublin; WineOnline.ie
