What is chardonnay and why does everybody hate it these days?

The answer to the first part of your question is easy: chardonnay is one of the world’s greatest white grape varieties, originating in northeast France. In Burgundy it produces almost all of the region’s great white wines. In nearby Champagne, it typically forms part of the blend that goes to make the world’s greatest sparkling wines. A Champagne with Blanc de Blancs on the label will be 100 per cent chardonnay. But most of these wines don’t have the word chardonnay anywhere on the label.

Over the past 50 years chardonnay has spread around the world and is now grown in virtually every wine-producing country and could almost be classified as a brand. Growers like it because it gives decent yields, and winemakers like it because they can use a variety of winemaking techniques to add complex layers to the wine.

As to why people hate it, it became fashionable to mock chardonnay in the 1990s when it became associated first with footballers’ wives, and then with Bridget Jones. Back then many of the wines tasted almost sweet with ripe banana and peach fruits. Some of them had been aged in new oak, adding rich toasty flavours. Chardonnay became ubiquitous and a little naff. There was even an ABC (anything but chardonnay) movement determined to broaden the appeal of other grape varieties.

In fact, chardonnay has always remained popular. Depending on where it is grown the wines can be fresh and dry with racy apple fruits, or riper and more textured. Either way it can be a great wine, and a great food wine in particular; try it with salmon, black sole, prawns or creamy chicken dishes to see just how good chardonnay can be.