FREETOWN LETTER:The west African country is keen to show visitors things have changed since the civil war ended in 2002, writes ELAYNE DEVLIN
ON THE flight from London to Freetown, not much appeared to have changed since my last visit to Sierra Leone in 2003.
There was the usual collection of returning migrants, aid workers and evangelicals. One young American couple, for example, who were on their first trip overseas, were coming to help orphans through Children of the Nations, a Christian non-profit organisation.
On arrival, it was strangely reassuring to discover that Lungi airport offered the same level of chaos as on my previous trip.
The seven-minute helicopter ride into Freetown, however, brought a surprising level of comfort.
Travelling by helicopter may sound extravagant, but when your flight arrives at midnight, it is the only viable option. The road from the airport to the city is appalling and the journey takes about five hours. The other option is a ferry, which is notoriously unsafe.
In 2003, the year after the war ended, there were no seats on the helicopter: passengers had to sit on their luggage and look out through an open door. It was terrifying.
Now, the helicopter is a 16-seater with safety belts. And this time, a tourist video was shown during the trip – not that you could hear it over the sound of the blades. The intention was clear, however: Sierra Leone is open for tourists.
The country is keen to show visitors that things have changed. It is taking tentative steps towards eco-tourism and Freetown has some of the most unspoilt beaches in west Africa.
Despite the poverty, people talk about positive change. Daniel Jones, a charcoal seller and community volunteer, says he thinks the biggest change has been in communications.
“I can go to an internet cafe and talk to my friends overseas,” he says.
Jones lives in Grey Bush slum, where many people can be seen chatting on mobile phones. While mobiles were available in the country six years ago, only government and aid workers could afford them; now, it seems everyone has one.
In rural Kenema, a Senegalese man, Malick Gaye, who works for communications company Alcatel-Lucent, was there on business, upgrading the network. While he lives in France, he says he has never heard of Ireland. But when he is reminded of Thierry Henry’s handball, he immediately knows where Ireland is and sympathises. In fact, if anyone in Sierra Leone didn’t quite understand the word “Ireland”, the mention of Henry instantly reminds them.
Like many parts of Africa, the mobile phone has revolutionised society but, in rural areas of Sierra Leone, it can make the difference between life and death.
In the small rural community of Largo, there is a health clinic supported by Irish Aid. Mothers and babies come to the clinic, not just because the medication is free, but also because they can charge their mobile phones from a solar-powered generator.
In a society where men often prevent women from using maternity services, the ability to charge a mobile phone has got people coming there in their droves.
Unfortunately, it’s not all positive. The improvement in communications is being partly blamed for the surge in population in the city. It appears that the “faraway hills are green” message now travels faster.
In the jammed city streets of Freetown, where young men from the countryside arrive in their thousands to earn a living, it is obvious that the population of the slums is growing.
According to one frustrated aid worker, young men are not interested in farming; they just want to be rap stars or footballers. Yet there are some visible signs of development. The national road network has improved and the authorities are keen to emphasise safety as “slow down” signs are everywhere.
Safety signs are certainly colourful in Sierra Leone: a photograph of an amorous woman putting her hand on her husband’s leg while he drives is accompanied by the slogan: “Love thy neighbour but not while driving”.