Drinking circles in Delhi are awash with rumours that alcohol could soon become more freely available in the Indian capital. With import restrictions on foreign booze brands about to be relaxed, there is speculation that the municipal authorities will allow an increase in the number of liquor stores around the city.
This is not the first time reform of the city's restrictive and antiquated liquor legislation has been debated. Last year, there was talk of more restaurants being licensed to sell wine and beer. It was also reported that the legal drinking limit might be reduced from 25 to 21 and - horror of horrors in some circles - that women might be allowed to serve in the city's few bars.
The talk of liberalisation came to nothing. Now, with quantitative restrictions on liquor imports to be removed at the end of this month, in accordance with a World Trade Organisation agreement, and excise duties soon to be revised, many think that Delhi's state authorities will try to increase revenue by approving more retailers.
"As of now, there are 230 liquor shops in the city," says one city official. "At the same time, the excise policy to be announced next month should pave the way for the opening of more outlets. Besides, with a host of global brands set to flow into India, the city government is exploring the feasibility of dedicated outlets which will stock specific brands, besides allowing selected departmental stores to stock chilled beer."
Currently, alcohol for home consumption is only for sale at off-licenses run by Delhi's municipal authorities. Shopping in these stores is a grim experience. Having pushed one's way through a surging mob to the shelves, one must then negotiate another seething crowd at the counter - the final indignity is a frisking at the hands of a sweating, betel nut-chewing security guard at the exit. No pine floor boards and easy-listening Van Morrison in Delhi off-licenses, thank you.
For some reason, such outlets are known as "wine shops", though sales of wine rank far behind those of hangover-inducing Indian beer and rot-gut Indian whiskey. Not that good Indian wine is unavailable. In fact, some very palatable wine is being produced by vineyards around Bangalore and Pune, near Bombay. But it costs a hefty $9.40 or more per bottle and does not readily complement spicy Indian food.
Most foreigners and middle-class Indians prefer to purchase their alcohol from characters such as the notorious Mr L-. A Danny DeVito look-alike and bootlegger by appointment to Delhi's international press corps, Mr L- will, at short notice and under cover of darkness, deliver a case of dodgy vin de table to your home for $90.
The wine originates with cash-strapped diplomats (mostly Africans and Moslems, says one business insider) who boost their incomes by selling their diplomatic booze quota at considerable profit to black marketeers.
Another source of illicit alcohol is the international airport, where customs officials and police are said to operate a lucrative racket out of duty-free.
Fears that such deals will be affected by the liberalisation of the liquor market are unfounded, say the bootleggers. Imported brands at approved off-licences will be costly, due to high rates of duty.
Now, if you'll excuse me, I've got to go and place an order with a certain Mr L-. Word on the grapevine has it there is a cheeky new Bordeaux in town.