A city haunted by armed criminals and relentless rain

It was like high summer in Brussels at the weekend as the city's residents roasted themselves in parks, by pools and on crowded pavements outside the bars. But as we revelled in the balmy temperatures, we were haunted by the knowledge that, before long, Brussels weather would be back to its miserable self.

Complaining about the rain is a favourite pastime of foreigners here - and there is plenty to complain about. A Swedish couple recently showed me a vast sun terrace they had built on to their luxurious flat in the city centre.

They swelled with pride as they pointed out the expensive details but a Nordic gloom descended when I asked them how often they had used the terrace last summer.

"Twice," they chorused.

Irish people are unwise to complain about the weather in public. But among ourselves, we agree that Belgian rain is wetter, drearier and more relentless than anything we are accustomed to at home. To make matters worse, statistics show that in Brussels, July is the wettest month of the year.

When they are not grumbling about the weather, expatriates titillate each other with horror stories about crime in the Belgian capital. Favourite tales concern "car-jacking" or "home-jacking", in which a thief walks into your home and demands the car keys at gunpoint.

There were 249 such incidents in Brussels last year, some involving criminals dressed as police officers who ordered drivers to pull over at traffic lights before stealing the car.

EU diplomats and Commission officials receive regular warnings about the threat from muggers who lurk near the European institutions at night. And the Commission is so worried about rising crime that it has made representations to the Belgian Interior Ministry.

In fact, Brussels is safer than most European capitals - even if crime is rising and becoming more violent. EU officials and diplomats may be more likely to have their car stolen because so many of them drive the Mercedes and BMWs that are the thieves' favourites.

The bleak office district that houses most of the European institutions is a choice hunting ground for muggers, not least because there is so little legitimate street life there. The Belgian government's crime prevention agency is taking the Eurocrats' fears seriously, however, and has launched a series of lectures on crime at the European institutions.

One practical step towards dealing with the problem involves the reform of Belgium's fragmented law enforcement system, a process that should be completed next year. Three police forces are responsible for Brussels' European quarter and emergency calls are often passed through a number of local police stations before help is sent.

Police tell a story of a road accident on the edge of Brussels that attracted squad cars from four districts. When they arrived at the scene, the police stood arguing about whose responsibility it was to deal with the incident while the two participants left quietly.

Brussels already has a single police radio service and the 19 local forces will soon become just six. It remains to be seen whether the changes will be enough to reassure the 55,000 foreign officials living in the city.

In the meantime, it is a good idea to develop a few techniques for avoiding trouble. The police warn drivers to keep their windows closed and if they are stopped by a policeman, to ask to see his badge - they don't give any tips about communicating through a closed window. If violence is threatened, you should not resist.

"Your car is never worth more than your life," they add helpfully.

A friend visiting from Berlin recently avoided a mugging by walking into the middle of the street and rolling vigorously on the ground. The thieves decided that he was too obviously deranged to be worth much money and left him alone.

My own favourite technique is to engage them in incongruously cheerful conversation, often about their clothes or hair, while fixing them with a long, meaningful look. They usually flee in horror. If they don't, just hand over the wallet and run.