Serving wine at the right temperature is one of the keys to maximising taste
AN ICE-COLD GLASS of crisp, dry white wine, with condensation slowly dripping down the side, or a rich, warming glass of soft red. Can anything taste better? Well actually, yes. We may enjoy the physical sensation of a cold drink on a hot summer’s day, and the all-over glowing feeling of a tepid red wine on a cold winter’s night, but it doesn’t always do much for the flavour of a wine.
Temperature plays an important part in our enjoyment of all food and wine; a room-temperature chicken is so much better than either hot or refrigerated. In this country, we generally serve white wines too cold, and red wines too warm. Whilst I have always tried to avoid those poncey wine thermometers, I have to admit they have a use, although with experience one sip will tell you whether a wine is at the right temperature.
A white wine served too cold will have absolutely no flavour at all. This can sometimes be a serious problem in restaurants, where waiters seem to see plonking your bottle in a bucket of freezing ice as part of their job. A polite request usually does the trick, although some sommeliers sneak the bottle back regardless. If so, warm your wine a little by cradling the glass in your hand or leave it resting on the table for a few minutes.
As a general rule, fuller whites are best served warmer; your finest white Burgundy or white Bordeaux will give so much more pleasure if served above or at cellar temperature, around 10-13 degrees, possibly even a little warmer. Crisp dry whites such as Muscadet or Soave, where acidity is all-important, are better served a bit cooler, around eight degrees to bring out their best. Most sweet wines need the coldest temperature of all; it seems to balance out the extreme richness and emphasise the acidity. But even here, six degrees is the ideal. Remember most fridges are about between two and five degrees, so a bottle that has lain there for several days will be the same temperature.
A red that is too cold will seem overly tannic and hard, but too warm and it becomes soupy and volatile, verging on mulled wine. The traditional advice is to serve red wines at room temperature, but do remember that this refers to unheated Victorian rooms, not our centrally-heated houses. The standard rule is if you are serving a fairly young tannic wine, such as a Barolo, a Bordeaux or other Cabernet Sauvignon, err slightly on the warmer side, maybe 15-17 degrees. This may seem a little cold for most of you, but do try it; you will get more aroma and more flavour too. In any case, the temperature in the room will soon start to warm it up. If you are serving something light, aromatic and juicy such as a Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Cabernet Franc from the Loire, cellar temperature (12-15 degrees) will emphasise the elegant fresh fruits. As you can see from above, this is around the same temperature as full-bodied whites.
This may all seem a little too technical for the average bottle of wine. However, I believe that serving wine at the right temperature is one of the keys to maximising enjoyment. As an experiment try putting half a bottle of a red wine in the fridge, leaving the other half in the kitchen. Taste them half an hour later, and they will seem like different wines.
How to chill and warm wines
If you entertain large numbers on a regular basis, it may be worth investing in a wine cooler, but do make sure you do not overchill. I keep a Vacuvin Rapid Ice in the freezer at all times. If I need to chill a wine quickly, I just pop this sleeve over the bottle and leave it for 10 minutes. During winter, I often leave white and sparkling wines outside the back door while I am cooking. I prefer reds to be on the cool side, so I usually take them straight from my unheated office. If a red wine is too cold, there are two options; you can leave some hot water in your decanter or jug for a few minutes. Then pour the water out and the wine in, thereby decanting and gently heating at one stroke. Alternatively, you can put the unopened wine into a sealed plastic bag, and immerse in barely lukewarm water for two minutes. There are those who use microwaves to warm up their wine, but I have always shied away from this. jwilson@irishtimes.com
TWO UNDER €12
Villarica Sauvignon Blanc, Maule Valley, Chile 2008, 13%,- €7.99.
It can be difficult to find much that is really drinkable at under €8, particularly following the recent duty increases. However, the Villarica Sauvignon is another real find from Cellar Master, the new wine warehouse in Stillorgan Industrial Estate. Medium-bodied with ample rounded pear fruits, it is a striking bargain at the price. Great drunk solo, and perfect party wine, or with summer salads.
Stockist: Cellar Master, Stillorgan Industrial Estate.
Tagus Creek Shiraz Trincadeira, Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal 2007, 13.5%, €10.99.
A very pleasant easy-drinking red with soft, chunky, dark fruits, an attractive freshness and light tannins on the finish. One to have ready for a casual anyday supper.
Stockists: Saba to Go, Dublin 6; The Wine Boutique, D4; Cellars Big Wine Warehouse, D12; Nolan's, Kilcullen; FreshCo, Kilkenny; The Pinecroft, Cork city; Barry's Off Licence, Midleton; Matson's, Bandon; Village Green Grocer, Castlemartyr; Susan Alan's Kitchen Pantry, Oranmore, Galway; Coasters, Limerick; select Next Door stores, nationwide.
WINES OF THE WEEK
One light white
Riesling Katzenthal, Domaine Meyer-Fonné, Alsace 2007, 12.5%, €20.25. Super linear, crisp, green fruits with plenty of go; dry and refreshing wine that offers a real touch of class. With fish and shellfish, crab in particular. Serve well chilled.
Stockists: Liston's, Camden Street; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; The Corkscrew; Avoca wine shops; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Michael's Wines, Deerpark Road; 64 Wine, Glasthule.
One fuller white
Domaine de la Janasse, Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2006, 13.5%, €18.50. Rich, rounded wine with lovely plump peachy fruits, made even more interesting by some wet-stones and minerals. A big boy that needs food to match. Barbequed fish, or grilled chicken would do the trick. Serve cold but not too chilled. Stockists: The Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Deveney's, Dundrum; Cases, Galway; www.thestoreroom.ie (1890-252624).
One light red
Morgon Domaine de Thulon 2006, 12.5%, €14.50. Good Beaujolais is one of the great summer drinks. Lovely classic canned strawberries and redcurrants; delicious, soft, easy wine with a lovely pure finish. Very reasonably priced wine to serve cool with all kinds of charcuterie. Stockists: The Malt House, Trim; Liston's, Camden Street; Red Island Wines, Skerries; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer St; Probus Wines, Oughterard; Wicklow Wine Co.
One full-bodied red
Domaine de la Citadelle, Côtes de Luberon 'Le Chataignier' 2007, 14%, €15.25. The Luberon produces some great wines at very keen prices. Domaine de la Citadelle is one of the best in the region. This is full, rich and hearty, with some delicious ripe fruit, and unexpected finesse for a wine so big. Try it with grilled pork chops with garlic. Stockists: Cases, Galway; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; www.thestoreroom.ie