A journey through ancient Ireland via the midlands

GREAT IRISH DRIVES R390 VIA HILL OF UISNEACH: MANY YEARS ago when this writer had his first car, an Austin Healey Sprite, the…

GREAT IRISH DRIVES R390 VIA HILL OF UISNEACH:MANY YEARS ago when this writer had his first car, an Austin Healey Sprite, the R390 between Mullingar and Ballinasloe was a road often travelled.

Now, any reader who was ever lucky enough to own one of these cars will know what a delightful machine they were and how, matched to a smooth, twisty road, they delivered more enjoyment per mile than cars costing 10 times the price. Back then, the R390 was just such a road and I’m delighted to report that it still is. True, in places there has been a lot of housing development along its edges but it still retains its character and, for most of its length, the surface is superb.

There are a number of villages along its route – Loughanvally, Killdare and, quite a large village but not yet a town, Ballymore.

Northeast of Killdare is the Hill of Uisneach, which in pagan times was reportedly accepted as the centre of the universe.

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The hill, at just 620 ft, is not high, but on a clear day there are stunning views over the central plains of Ireland stretching all the way to the Wicklow Mountains located 90 miles to the east. It is said that as many as twenty counties can be seen from the top of the hill when conditions are right.

There is so much legend associated with the hill that it’s difficult to know where to begin.In ancient times, Ireland was divided into five provinces – Ulster, Meath, Leinster, Munster and Connacht – and it was here at what was known as Ail na Mireann (The Stone of Divisions) that all five met.

The hill itself is a large limestone rock with a cleft in it and here King Tuathal built a hill-fort in the 11th century. Today, all that remains of the fortress is its earthworks and a number of burial mounds.

It was here too that the feast of Bealtaine was celebrated on the first of May each year when games and contests were held between two great fires. Interestingly, a newly instituted Festival of Fire was held here for the first time in May of this year.

Finally, there is a suggestion that the first car in Ireland drove here from Belfast for a musical gathering. I was unable to confirm this and would be most interested if any reader has any knowledge of the occasion.

I strongly recommend that you make the short diversion to explore the Hill of Uisneach.

A small lay-by leads to a track up the hill but do note it’s on private land and the owners permission must be sought before accessing the path.

This can be obtained by phoning a telephone number given on the gate sign.

The road takes you through the very heart of the Irish midlands.

It is a refreshing journey that traverses some of Ireland’s most ancient sites, which in their day rivalled the much better known Hill of Tara.

It also demonstrate yet again the wonders that are to be found all along Ireland’s roads.