The pop-up trend of the past few years really spoke to those of us who don’t feel entirely comfortable with the pomp of posh restaurants. Pop-ups and supper clubs meant we could enjoy posh food served in humble settings. There are a few pop-ups that continue to pique the interest of food lovers looking for something different, and recently, a number of exemplary daytime cafes have been branching out into evening meals, flexing their culinary muscles to cater for those of us who want to
The Fumbally (Dublin 8, thefumbally.ie) launched its Wednesday suppers earlier this month. Owners Aisling Rogerson and Luca d'Alfonsp had always intended to offer relaxed, evening meals but the daytime got so crazy that they didn't have time in the first three years of being open.
They have always dealt with the madness with gratitude and grace, and earlier this year they made the decision to close on Mondays, as well as Sundays, in order to focus on The Stables, the building next door that houses their test kitchen. Shelves are stacked with fermenting vinegars and kombucha, and jars of pickled vegetables line the exposed brick walls. That extra day off meant the team could programme an autumn series of talks and workshops in The Stables (thefumballystables.ie), as well as finding time to start their Wednesday-night dinners. There's no need to book for dinners and there's only one thing on the menu. Week one featured a chicken and a vegetarian ramen, week two, Dillisk broth, week three, bourguignon, one beef and one beet. See thefumbally.ie/wednesdays or turn up on a Wednesday at 7pm.
Sweet Beat Café (sweetbeat.ie) is a plant-based health café founded by head chef Carolanne Rushe, who opened the doors of this vegan friendly café on Bridge St in Sligo just over six months ago. As well as offering breakfast and lunch, Sweet Beat is home to Winter Feasting, a three-course supper club celebrating the produce of winter with a complimentary Kombucha cocktail for €30 per person. Winter Feasting will be back on more Thursday19th of November, 10th of December and 17th of December.
Good to share
Another great daytime café, Brother Hubbard (brotherhubbard.ie), launched its Middle Eastern Feasting earlier this autumn. For €27.95 you can indulge in a three-course meal that encourages sharing. Moroccan trays bear gifts of beetroot hummus, dukkah, and falafel. Mains include beef koftas and Imam Bayaldi aubergine. Desserts are Middle Eastern bites that include homemade ice-cream sprinkled with pistachio and rose petals.
NorthEast is a pop-up supper club hosted by chef Eric Heilig (currently to be found in the kitchen at Luna) and front of house Floriane Loup. The duo's last supper club project was BrewsWePlate, where craft beer was paired with food.
Their latest project champions the forgotten food culture of northeast Germany, where Heilig comes from. Using seasonal Irish produce, such as vegetables supplied by McNally’s organic farm, North East is an attempt to reassess and highlight the culinary culture of the Pomeranian region, which was adversely affected in the last century by wars and border changes.
Their next dinner is taking place on Sunday, November 8th, and it will feature a seven-course menu for €60. This supper is BYOB. You can expect hare, bilberry, pumpkin and coffee, all in the same dish. There’ll be razor clams steamed in damp autumn leaves, glazed in clam juice, served with chanterelles, crispy trumpet mushrooms, rowanberries, cured scallop foe and fennel leaves.
It's in a secret location in Dublin, and to find out where it's going to be and how to get a ticket, you'll have to visit northeastcuisine.bigcartel.com.
Seaweed search
Forage & Find is a catering business run by chef Kevin O'Connell out of Ballinspittle, near Kinsale, in Co Cork. In July, it hosted a five-course supper club, featuring local, wild and homegrown produce. This caterer also hosts foraging walks, and this Sunday there's a family-friendly seaweed and hedgerow foraging walk on Garretstown beach. Tickets are €15 per person and can be booked via forageandfind@hotmail.com. Keep an eye on forageandfind.ie for the return of their supper club in future seasons.
Closer to Christmas, the Hunt&Gather team are hosting Roald Dahl-themed Christmas dinners in a stunning, crumbling old house at No 12 Henrietta Street in Dublin 1 on December the 4th, 5th and 6th. The evening promises you the chance to mingle with the Roald Dahl you love as well as dining on pickled pear, roast shoulder of lamb and quince and ginger cheesecake. This event has just sold out but keep an eye on its Facebook page or go to huntandgather.ie for any resale tickets or cancellations in the coming weeks.
