Seasonal Suppers: Celeriac season as the nights draw in

The first celeriacs have arrived into Aniar from Beechlawn farm in Ballinasloe. Celeriac, as many know, is a variety of celery that is grown principally for its root. Above ground it can be mistaken for celery, though its stalks and leaves are tougher.

Once harvested, celeriac keeps for a long time in cool storage (six to eight months), so it is one of those vegetables that will reoccur repeatedly on our own and other menus over the next few months.

As well as making a beautiful silky smooth puree, celeriac can also hold its own as a bowl of heart- warming soup. The border between a puree and a soup can often be a narrow one; in my case, I often add vegetable stock to a base of puree to make a ready-to-eat soup if I’m at home. It’s good for saving space in the fridge.

Wash, peel and chop your celeriac into smallish pieces. Place in a pot with equal parts milk and cream (just enough to cover) and simmer until soft. Strain the liquid into a bowl and place the celeriac in food processor. Season with a little sea salt and blend. You will need approximately half the cooking liquid to make a smooth puree. If you want to make it looser, use all the liquid. Do remember to check the seasoning at the end of the process.

Celeriac also makes a fine oven roast chip, pairing well with so much of the game just coming into season: mallard, partridge and pigeon. The legendary Pierre Koffmman, formerly of three-Michelin- star Tante Claire (1977-2004), often pairs celeriac with venison.

The woody nuttiness of the celeriac batons works wonderfully with roasted venison loin. You could try adding in a few autumnal fruits (plums or red currants) to finish the dish.

Finally, celeriac can also be eaten raw. Sliced thinly and dressed with lemon juice and a little mayonnaise, this fancy coleslaw sits well on an Irish charcuterie platter of cured meats and smoked fish.