This three-course €38 set menu is phenomenal value

Restaurant review: Simplicity is at its best at this smart place with exemplary fish cooking

Cush Restaurant, Ballycotton, Co Cork. Photograph: Michael Mac Sweeney/Provision

Cush Restaurant, Ballycotton, Co Cork. Photograph: Michael Mac Sweeney/Provision

I’m sure that anyone who has a copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking is full of warm feelings for the unlikely star and original TV chef, Julia Child, as she flambees her coq au vin into the doubting hearts and smartly-tailored midriffs of the studio bosses of 1960s Boston in Julia, the television series that’s airing on Sky Atlantic.

My copy is pre-Amazon, with an onion skin patination encroaching on each brittle page. It is a reference for vadouvan, particularly with scallops, that has me flicking through the recipes. Although coquilles St Jacques feature, there are none with vadouvan, a blend of spices similar to masala that originated with French colonisation of Puducherry in southeast India.

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