Meal Ticket: Dela, Galway

Margaret and Joe Bohan are the husband and wife who opened dela in 2013, in the space that used to house JP McMahon’s Cava restaurant before it moved to its new home on Middle Street. The Bohans were inspired by a trip to Norway, where they experienced a simpler Scandinavian style of eating out and wanted to bring an element of that to Galway. Dela, translated from Swedish, means to share.

To describe the décor or food at dela as Scandi would be misleading, but it certainly has a stripped-back rustic charm. The menu offers comfort food classics such as steamed Killary mussels with chorizo, fennel and white wine (€6.50 starter) and the dela sweet potato tagine Hot Pot (€14.50). There is a sharing section on their dinner menu, featuring charcuterie and an Irish cheeseboard. Season permitting, the couple grow as much produce as possible on their Moycullen family farm to supply the restaurant. They’re also into craft beer brewing and offer a few of their own seasonal brews alongside Irish craft beers.

I’m in for brunch, celebrating the engagement of friends who are based in Galway. Complimentary prosecco for the happy couple finds it way to our table thanks to Margaret Bohan, who oversees service beautifully. My refreshingly interesting non-alcoholic strawberry, berry bitters and soda drink is struck off our bill, too, in the name of celebration. The cocktails and choice of craft beers is great but the coffee could be improved. My flat white tastes burnt and bitter, and I can’t distinguish any of the softer notes – the caramels, chocolates or berry flavours – that I always look forward to tasting in carefully brewed coffee.

I’m curious about the Middle and Far Eastern influences that run through the vegetarian options in the brunch and dinner menus. The appearance of a falafel and hummus on a Scandi-inspired Irish restaurant, among the free-range mustard chicken and seared steak sandwiches, feels a little off message. Though I have read the couple is keen to not tie themselves down to just one type of food, for me it makes the menu feel a little unfocussed.

But it all tastes great. The veggie breakfast (€8.50) comes with crispy falafel and a lightly battered cauliflower pakora. Paired with fried potatoes, mushrooms, eggs and fried tomatoes, it’s a big plate of food and a welcome hangover buster. My buttermilk pancakes (€8.50) are made in the American style, stacked tall on the plate, drizzled with maple syrup and served with good quality bacon. The breakfast burrito is not a breakfast option that I’m a fan of – too messy, too big, too Guy Fieri – but dela’s do an elegant job of it. Their brunch burrito (€7.50) is wrapped in a toasty tortilla that doesn’t go soggy halfway through, like other disastrous breakfast burritos I’ve suffered through. The flavours of the scrambled eggs, the relish and the coriander and lime salsa are balanced well.

Brunch for three, with a tea (€1.80), an Americano (€2.50) and a flat white (€2.80) comes to €32.10. Dela is open for brunch and dinner only.