Compiled by MARIE-CLAIRE DIGBY

From an Italian kitchen

‘ITALIAN KITCHEN’ is a compendium of four preciously published books by the respected Italian food writer Anna Del Conte, repackaged as a single volume with photographs by Jason Lowe.

Lots has changed in the food world sine Del Conte first published these recipes in 1993, but they remain classics of their type, with a few interesting curve balls thrown in for good measure, such as risotto with smoked salmon and whiskey.

The recipes are divided according to antipasti, pasta, risotti and dolci, and it is the risotti that are the most interesting. Her much admired recipe for lemon risotto has appeared in print many times over the years, but of course my tattered newspaper cutting went astray at some stage and I’ve been improvising when making this refreshing yet creamy, herb-infused rice dish. I’d forgotten that it was enriched with an egg yolk and well as some cream, and the quantity of lemon used is much less than I’ve been adding, so it will be interesting to see how it turns out now I can once again stay faithful to the original.

The pasta recipe collection in this book includes many old faithfuls, but be warned: there are no shortcuts taken here, and to make her lasagne al forno, you’ll be rolling your own handmade fresh pasta.

Del Conte says she wrote the fourth book in the original series, I Dolci, to dispel the notion that recipes for Italian sweet things weren’t worth knowing. Her collection of regional recipes for cakes and biscuits, often traditionally made for specific religious feast days, is joined by a selection of more lavish puddings, served at parties or celebration.

Go native

There may not yet be a ‘r’ in the month yet, but oysters are popping up on menus in anticipation of the oyster festival season next month. At Fallon Byrne on Exchequer Street in Dublin 2, you can have a half dozen Carlingford oysters and a glass of Champagne for €18.95 or a bottle and a dozen for €64.95, on Sundays only. At the Shelbourne Hotel you’ll find Irish oysters on ice in the Saddle Room every day, with a price tag of €14 for a half dozen

Reason to visit west Cork . . .

Chefs have a thing about knives, as you'd expect, so when I saw beautifully crafted specimens in the hands of two of Ireland's top chefs recently, it came as no surprise to learn that they were handmade and one-offs, but what was unexpected was to learn that they weren't Japanese- or French-made, but came from Schull, Co Cork. They were made by Fingal Ferguson, a member of the "Gubbeen family" of cheesemakers, herb growers and, in his case, producer of salamis, chorizo and other types of charcuterie. "I've had a passion for knives from a very young age, and Rory Conner has very generously been teaching me and sharing his knowledge with me for years," Ferguson says. Conner, a professional cutler who trained in the US and has been living in west Cork for the past 25 years, sells his knives online at roryconnerknives.com. Ferguson's knives really are things of beauty, and you can see a selection of them at fingalfergusonknives.com. The weight and feel of a knife is a very personal thing though, so you can also visit, by appointment, to pick or commission your knife. Prices depend on size and materials used, but as a guide, a kitchen knife will cost around €110.

And another one . . .

Schull is also home to Mairead McAnallen's Gourmet Pots, which stocks the work of Irish and international craftspeople, including these interesting jugs or pourers. They are made by Lara Scobie, who lives in Edinburgh and lectures at the University of Dundee. Her porcelain is known for its lightweight, translucent qualities and she takes her inspiration from botanical sources, such as the colours, exttures and lines of leaves, stems and grasses, and water. The jugs are 13.5cms high and cost €52. Gourmet Pots is at Ardravinna, about 5km west of Schull.

Anna Del Conte's Risotto al Limone

Serves 4 as a first course

1.25 litres chicken or vegetable stock

60g unsalted butter

1 tbsp olive oil

2 shallots, very finely chopped

1 celery stick, very finely chopped

300g Italian rice, preferably Arborio

½ organic lemon

5 or 6 fresh sage leaves

leaves from small sprig of fresh rosemary

1 egg yolk

4 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan

4 tbsp double cream

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the stock to a gentle simmer (keep it simmering all through the cooking of the rice). Heat half the butter, the oil, shallots and celery in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and sauté until the soffritto – frying mixture – of shallot and celery is softened (about 7 minutes). Mix in the rice and continue to sauté, stirring, until the rice is well coated with the fats and is partly translucent. Pour over about 150ml of the simmering stock. Stir very thoroughly and cook until the rice has absorbed nearly all of the stock, still stirring. Add another ladleful of simmering stock, and continue in this manner until the rice is ready. You may not need all the stock. Good-quality Italian rice for risotto takes 15–20 minutes to cook.

Meanwhile, thinly pare the zest from the lemon half and chop it with the herbs. Mix into the rice halfway through the cooking. Squeeze the half lemon into a small bowl and combine it with the egg yolk, Parmesan, cream, a little salt and a very generous grinding of black pepper. Mix well with a fork. When the rice is al dente, draw the pan off the heat and stir in the egg and cream mixture and the remaining butter. Cover the pan and leave to rest for 2 minutes or so. Then give the risotto an energetic stir, transfer to a heated dish or bowl and serve at once, with more grated Parmesan in a little bowl if you wish.

Italian Kitchen, by Anna Del Conte, is published by Square Peg, priced £20

The buzz

The Kitchn @thekitchn: Surprising little baking tip: Did you know that you can substitute avocado for butter? thekitchn.com

Clotilde Dusoulier @clotildenet: Snacking on raw granola from natashas living food that @pascaleweeks brought me back from Ireland

Pat Whelan @Pat_Whelan: Spoke to @BigGreenEggUK have arranged a masterclass on the BGEBus in Dublin