Fish for compliments with this spicy tagine

Irish people can be a bit funny about fish. We have fantastic fish available – we’re an island after all – but when it comes to eating it, we don’t like it to be too, well, fishy.

We also know just how good it is for us, particularly the oily varieties such as salmon and mackerel. But perhaps because we sometimes imagine it’s hard to cook, we tend to give fish a wide berth, a bit like we would a dodgy cousin at a family wedding. Too much trouble, we think.

Or maybe Ireland’s tradition of fish on Fridays means we simply forget about cooking it all the other days of the week – or even on Fridays, for that matter.

In short, most of us are not eating nearly enough fish. Which is a shame, because fish, when fresh, is delicious and has the benefit of being a genuine 15-minute supper.

It cooks fast, it’s full of goodness and is also very versatile. And though it is always tempting to just grill or fry it and serve it up with a bit of lemon and butter – nothing wrong with that – there are other ways of making it more tempting, which helps if you’re trying to feed a family.

But which fish to cook? As a rule, opt for what is freshest and in season. Salmon and cod are hugely popular, but partly because cod is so overfished, I try not to feature it in too many recipes. Salmon at least can be farmed easily and well, and many supermarkets now sell frozen fillets that are excellent value, money and nutrition wise.

If you are cooking a robust type of fish such as salmon or hake, fish can take spice. Almost every South Asian country has a version of a fish or seafood curry, and they are delicious.

But what about heading west of Asia for spicy inspiration – what about a tagine?

Recently, I decided to try cooking one. Firm, succulent salmon was a natural choice of fish for this, but I also used hake and monkfish as they’re ‘meaty’ enough to take the cooking. The flavours are gentle but aromatic, and the whole thing works surprisingly well.

And to go with it, the simplest of tomato salads. Get the best, ripest tomatoes you can find; if they’re watery and insipid, this won’t work.

This is simple, clean, tasty food, and all the better for it.

dkemp@irishtimes.com