Culinaria: Sweet and spicy ways with kidneys, livers and hearts

When it comes to eating offal, some of us have no heart. Nutty gizzards would not be our thing. But responsible eating dictates that we should eat a little offal, not every day but at least twice a week.

On a healthy note, offal is full of iron. So while some of us may not like its piquant taste, it is good for us. To get the best out of the rich taste of offal (kidney, livers and hearts), it’s best to combine them with something slightly sweet or spicy. A roast pepper and cinnamon sauce would pair well with some pan-fried liver. Indeed, charring the peppers before you roast them would add a beautiful bitterness that would complete the tangy taste of the juicy liver.

I like to use the small red Spanish piquillo peppers. Throw them in a pot with a little sugar, some sherry vinegar, the juice and zest of an orange and a pinch of cinnamon. Simmer for 30 minutes and blend.

Another nice combination for chicken or duck hearts is chorizo sausage. I’m thinking of the soft kind of chorizo, not the fully cured log.

One of our tapas in Cava Bodega combines chicken hearts, chorizo and cider. It’s a very simple dish but it packs a great punch. Simply heat a small pan with a little oil and fry the hearts (cut in half) with some slices of chorizo. When you’re happy with the colour, pour in a small glass of good Irish cider. (If it’s a large bottle, you can drink the rest.)

Finally, I love to cook kidneys with a dash of apple balsamic vinegar. First season the kidneys with sea salt, then pan-fry in nutty butter and, just before you serve, drizzle some of the sweet vinegar over the kidneys while they’re still in the pan.

Serve with a few bitter leaves on the side, such as rocket or chicory. Come to think of it, I would imagine that any of the combinations above are interchangeable, such as the liver with the vinegar or the kidneys with the chorizo. Let your hearts go wild. JP McMahon