Barfly: Moran’s Mornington, Co Meath

A group of kayakers led me to Moran’s. They paddled down the Boyne and straight into this attractive village and its only pub, and became dedicated champions for this slice of Irish life.

Pay it a visit and you’ll come to understand the strange pull the bar has on its patrons. Moran’s has been serving pints since the 1800s, and former landlady Agnes Moran and the rest of her family are still spoken of.

The original bar Agnes ran retains its place in the village, while new owners Brendan and Michelle Battersby have carved out an elegant and modern pub. They have mirrored tradition maintaining the old while adding a new bar room, named in honour of Agnes, with a fine blazing fire at its heart.

They converted the old milking barn into a fantastic venue and smoking area they call the Shed but which has a much finer finish than its name suggests.

The old walls of the milking stalls are still in place, and there’s another fire at its heart.

The Battersbys have created new space and business opportunities without sacrificing heritage. Their next project, they say, is to build Agnes a restaurant.

Push through the swing doors and meet the often singing, sport-loving local patrons.

There’s a blend of Dublin and Meath here, and a sense of identity as rooted in the county as the handsome tree that shades Moran’s through the summer.